The bar area (morning…later, jam packed and blaring) Tigerlily hotel in the (relatively) new part of Edinburgh symbolizes the scene in this pulsating city. Good looking and stylish young people everywhere. Eclectic, modern-leaning decor, awareness of sustainability and recycling, attention to food issues like allergies and intolerance…almost, not almost, to a fault.
[When I ordered at a small restaurant, the waiter asked if I had any food issues. I (foolishly) mentioned I had a slight intolerance to lactose. As though a bomb hit the restaurant, the alarm bells went off. He almost screamed that my dish had some Romano cheese sprinkled on top, so I would have to order something else. I said, whoa, how about if you just put some of the shredded cheese in a ramekin on the side? He ran into the kitchen and brought back his supervisor, carrying an iPad, who asked me to read and sign a disclaimer! Yes a disclaimer! Albeit, the food was delicious. Needless to say, I never mentioned a food issue again].
By contrast, overlooking the city in the Old Town is Edinburgh Castle with it’s huge tourist scene. We’re in the fringe season and told this photo would be shoulder-to-shoulder humanity in just a few weeks.
Before we made the pilgrimage to the Castle, we took a ride and made a few stops in the 18th century, Georgian, New Town. Both areas together are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
These are residences and offices around Charlotte Square. Bute House, lower left, was the official residence of the First Minister.
New Town is a masterpiece of urban planning and still has its original Georgian and Neoclassical architecture from 1765 to 1850. There was no piecemeal, but instead constructed as ensembles.
We drove around the Royal Scottish Academy, the Scott Monument, the National Gallery and Edinburgh’s main shopping areas on Princes and George streets.
We spent the rest of the morning wandering the Castle, the highest point in the Old Town, visible from almost every corner of Edinburgh. We checked out the Great Hall, the Honours (Crown Jewels), the Scottish National War Memorial and the Royal Palace, once the apartments of the Scottish royals in the castle. Interesting to note that the canon all faces north toward the sea, while leaving the more vulnerable city route in the east pretty much unprotected.
After the castle we wandered the hills of the Old Town’s restored 16th and 17th century “tenements” on nearby streets alongside other archetectural standouts. We had a bit of lunch at the National Libray’s cafe and made our way to Sandy Bell’s, a tiny pub that specializes in Scottish folk music. We had been invited by Michael, our tour guide to a performance by “Magnus Turpie and Friends”, his son’s and his amazing group of musicians and singers. What a treat! A couple of pints of stout and ale, and glasses of wine, and an afternoon of joy. Take a look below so you won’t miss out on what we heard and felt:
After this terrific event we decided to walk back to the hotel to see what we could see. Google Maps said it would be 21 minutes, but as we turned the first corner we saw…
…the National Museum of Scotland, an amazing combination of ancient and modern in a building of that same genre. It was a little before 4, er, 1600, but it was open until 5. So in we went for a rapid review of the artistic and scientific ages of Scotland.
These are just a tiny example of what’s on display. There is also a natural history section replete with dinosaurs somewhat rivaling New York’s Museum of Natural History, hands-on displays for kids, sections dedicated to fashion ala MOMA, contemporary art like the Whitney, and lots more. Quite a find…just needed more time!
We walked wearily back on another brilliant, sunshiny day (astonishing to the locals), had some dinner down the street with some of the really great people in our group, and off to bed anticipating our last full day, tomorrow, and our travel day after that. See you on the Yacht!