Around the World with Marsha & Joel

Last full day and the weather forecast is, again, iffy. But, we’ve got a plan – with Marsha and Nancy, there’s always a plan. We’ve been told by a couple of people that Sorrento has a huge outdoor market, frequented mostly by locals that might be an interesting look into “real” life in the town.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

So we packed our umbrellas and walked to the main square. We were told two ways to get to the market, so we chose the longest one (of course). We quickly crossed over the line between the tourist shops into the local shops; pharmacies, supermarkets, gas stations, stationery – heading for the train station where we could make a right and climb to the “nearby” market. A small, inviting church (the order known well by Jeff) allowed us a short rest after going much further than we thought we would in the damp air.

We finally found our way around the train station and climbed steeply on a more “residential” street (after several requests for directions – we were told “5 more minutes” three successive times). We passed some lovely old walls, an ancient, abandoned church, citrus trees in lush local gardens, and the beautiful bark on stands of red “umbrella” pines. Out of breath we finally turned the corner to find…

…the remains of what would have been a great market (we thought). Apparently it was soon to close anyway, and a light rain was starting to fall. We quickly perused a few stands that were not quite packed in; delicious looking olives, some sparse fruit and vegetable tables, and lots of clothing, over-the-counter medicines, cosmetics…and some of the same stuff we find in local places like the Columbus Market in NJ (for those of you who know it).

Oh well. At least it was downhill on the way back. Since we all love scrutinizing local supermarkets we decided to stop on the way back to do just that, and to buy some stuff that we could use for a picnic lunch back at the hotel.

It was a good choice. The weather had lifted so we could spread out our salami, cheese, bread and wine and dig in. It felt really good after our long, long walk to the disappearing market.

Marina Grande Redux

After lunch, Marsha and I decided to complete the Rick Steves walk of old Sorrento we had started the day before yesterday. The finish was just past our hotel, winding down to the Marina Grande (where we had taken the long car ride to the restaurant).

• 

• 

• 

The small stone path (unbelievably shared with vehicles part of the way) wound progressively steeper down hill until we reached this ancient Greek gate that fortified the city of Sorrento, and separated the town from the “marina people” who were more susceptible to rape, pillage and plunder from the Saracens (Turkish pirates).

• 

• 

• 

• 

Just past the gate was a stairway that opened up to the Marina Grande (Sorrento’s “big” small-boat harbor. It really was a different feel from the city above. The little community is still based on fishing, but now, some very nice restaurants help bolster their economy – like the one we ate in the other night. It would have been a lot simpler to have walked to it we discovered. The large photo above shows the final stairway (on the left) coming down from the hotel level on the plateau with the trees.

• 

• 

• 

• 

The way back up was just as interesting with a beautiful mosaic shrine below the arch and a really funky fountain, inlaid with all kinds of ceramic sea icons. A memorable way to finish our exploration of Sorrento and this special part of Italy.

We finished our stay with a wonderful dinner at the best restaurant of the trip – recommended by our stalwart bartender, Giovanni. We had local fish and shellfish, soup and veal…and by far the best pasta bolognese we’ve ever tasted. A leisurely stroll back to the hotel. A good night’s sleep. And, a blessedly uneventful trip back home.

A delicious trip for the palate, for the eyes, and for the soul, with dear, dear friends. So glad you could be with us.

See you in Patagonia (Chile and Argentina) in February.

Ciao!

The “Ahhhhhh/Oh My!” trip from Sorrento toward Salerno is one of the most breathtaking collection of views in the world.

The roads are a testament to the engineering skill of 19th century Italian engineering, and a true test for the skills of the 21st century drivers as they squeeze past each other (some places have a cop pushing in your mirrors for you) at the edge of a 500 foot drop to the sea.

We had a bit of luck that day as the weather provided some breaks of sun intermingled with just a few sprinkles.

You also have to understand that when places are as picturesque and stunning as this you are bound to get the vulgarity, the “rich” cheapness, and crowds of tourists gawking at the wrong things and spending way too much money on “designer goods”. We were also fortunate that we were there at the very end of the season, when the crowds are light and the weather still pretty good.

We quickly realized how smart we were using Paolo and his minivan for the four of us as opposed to a bus tour or (no, no, no) a self-drive car. Busses can only go one direction (south) on the coast roads. Paolo was able to get off and on at small towns and picture-worthy spots as he or we wanted. And, his vast local knowledge helped oriented us to the things in which we were most interested.

Positano

As we turned onto the coast road Paolo pointed out two small islands (Li Galli Islands) that are thought to be the home of the sirens in Homer’s Odyssey. The largest was once owned by Rudolph Nureyev and now is a luxury residence that can be rented for over $100,000 per week (bring your own yacht or helicopter).

The first stop was Positano, built on a series of man-made terraces. It’s a spectacular looking place with a lot of steep strolls inside. Known for fashion, Positano’s shops are primarily women’s wear. Only one street allows motorized vehicles, the rest pedestrian. Wish it was that way in the other towns as you have to be nimble and have eyes behind your head to get out of the way of scooters and little cars. There is not a heck of a lot to do here except eat, window shop and go to the beach. The views are it – and plenty!

Just outside of Positano is the tiny town of Praiano that is known for being the center of the region’s ceramics industry – a must stop for Marsha of course.

At the end of the town, just before the tunnel leading to Amalfi is this amazing presepe (manger scene) built right into the cliff face. The miniature was carved by one local man. Each house is filled with figures and lights. The only problem is what you see is the edge of the road, nary a shoulder…and couldn’t see any place to park nearby. I guess closeup viewing is a local secret we didn’t discover.

Ravello

The next town on the way was Amalfi, but we decided to go on to Ravello, perched 1,000 feet above the sea, to have our lunch and a look at the stunning little “island garden” seemingly all on its own. The views have always attracted writers and poets like D.H. Lawrence, Gore Vidal, H.W. Longfellow, and artists including M.C. Escher (look at the complex backdrop in the next photo, and you’ll see why).

Probably our favorite place on the coast. It’s a haven for music, calm and quiet compared to the other towns – unobstructed views that could be Hollywood backdrops – you sometimes have to tell yourself that they are real. And, we had a great lunch at the Trattoria Pizzeria Cumpa Cosimo, run by the ultimate Italian grandma who cooks and serves and pinches and squeezes. A delicious stop in many ways!

Amalfi Town

We headed back and stopped in Amalfi town. In the early 14th century much of the culture of the region was driven by this town. After Rome fell it was the first major trading center between Europe and the East. In 1343 though, it was destroyed by an undersea earthquake and its resultant tsunami. It’s never returned to its original stature, and isn’t quite as picturesque as Positano, but it’s less touristy and gives a better sense of the “real” people who live on the coast. We spent some time climbing the steps to the Cathedral in the Piazza Duomo for some amazing views. We didn’t have time, but it’s a great place for hiking to the top and above the town.

Back Through the Setting Sun

It was getting late and we wanted to see views of the coast from a different perspective and in different light. Photos through the windshield of our van certainly don’t do justice to what we were seeing with our own eyes. But those “pictures” will remain preserved in our own minds and memories.

Back to Sorrento for dinner, just a few blocks from he hotel. A great day. A pleasant evening. Off to bed to make ready for our last full day.

Join us tomorrow for a walk to the local, outdoor market…and, finally, a walk downhill to Sorrento’s Marina Grande.

The weather forecast was horrid. We texted with Paolo before breakfast and agreed we would put off the Amalfi Coast tour until the next day. No problem. But tomorrow had better be better since roads on the Coast can actually be closed since runoff from the mountains can flood them.

Sorrento itself is usually considered more a starting point to do other explorations, i.e. Capri, Pompeii/Vesuvius, the other cities on the Amalfi Coast, etc. But, Sorrento itself is charming and has more to offer than it’s hotels, restaurants, and shops. It rests on a cliff above the bay, divided in half by a deep ravine with the old historic sector offering plenty to see and do.

• 

• 

• 

We gathered our rain gear (that amazingly was not needed except for a few soft sprinkles during the day), and headed from the quiet park in front of the hotel, past the great city-dividing ravine running out to the bay. Then into the central, Tasso piazza. From there we started on the old Sorrento walking tour in Rick Steves’ guide book. [Note the Christmas tree – all the elaborate Christmas decorations were already going up all over town on November 1. I guess since they have no Thanksgiving, the start the celebration early].

The Piazza was named for the poet, Torquato Tasso, born there in 1544. It always seems to be the busiest part of town, with most streets/alleys leading to it. It’s a meeting place with music, bars and working craftspeople.

• 

• 

A little uphill from the Piazza (which is actually a bridge over the ravine) was a part of the deep, deep old gorge dividing the city where previously rushing water from the mountains above powered a number of mills and public wash houses (it was called “The Valley of the Mills”). Looking down you can still see the steps carved centuries before Christ. Some of them are currently being renovated more for tourism than operation.

• 

Returning to the Piazza, we stopped into the Fattoria Terranova shop, a great family-run boutique (typical, but better than many around town) where we met Susy who manages the place. She offered us tastes of biscuits and Lemoncello and talked about meeting Rick Steves, and how she was mentioned in his book. The family farm supplies all of the organic edibles offered for sale.

• 

• 

We wandered down a narrow, ancient alley to this 13th century palace (no balconies then – for security). Across is a tiny shrine where people pray to their saint, who contacts Mary, who contacts Jesus, who contacts God. This shrine is a bit of a shortcut as you pray directly to Mary first.

• 

• 

At the end of the alley is the local cathedral. Unfortunately no photos were allowed inside, but the beautiful intarsio (inlaid-wood) that dominated inside could be seen on the outer doors. Intarsio is a large part of the Sorrento culture and economy.

• 

• 

We were distracted from our walk a bit by a modern-day “muscle” car show stretching for blocks. It predominately featured ultra-modern and classic Ferraris, plus some photo shoots of some obviously big shot Ferrari personnel. Now, back to the old…

• 

We continued down another ancient alley (called the Via P. Reginaldo Giuliani – probably not a relative) to find the Sedil Dominova, the Sorrento Men’s Club. For generations it’s been a retreat for retired working class men. The frescoes are spectacular. And, no women and no phones – not so spectacular.

• 

• 

Onward through some old shopping streets we curved around to a square with the rather unimpressive (from the outside) Basilica of St. Anthony (Antonino), Sorrento’s town saint.

• 

• 

It’s much more interesting inside with a chapel and reliquary that has St. Anthony’s bones surrounded by lots of votives. The tokens of appreciation to the saint for his help are fascinating (we’ve seen them in several places on this trip). The shiny (stamped metal) ex-votos (religious offerings) are thanks for healthy babies, surviving heart attacks and lung problems, plus most diseases you can imagine.

• 

• 

Now winding our way back toward the hotel we find the Villa Comunale, a beautiful public park that overlooks the harbor. It is also the home of a photo exhibit, The Italians, that shows off the work of local photographer Raffaele Celentano.

This gives some idea of the level of the city over the bay. There are long, switchback stairs to go up and down, and elevators that will do the task for some Euros. The beaches aren’t Miami or Atlantic City with their wide expanses of soft white sand. Here the sandy beach is fairly rare with rocky ones dominating. But, they are enjoyed fully…in better weather.

The walk continues toward Marina Grande, first passing by the square in front of our hotel, Piazza della Vittoria, with this dramatic WWI memorial across from a more recent fenced dog run.

Being a bit tired, some of us would rather go back to the hotel than continue on what appears to be a long downhill to the Marina Grande (and the long uphill back). So, one for all, and all for one, we stop and save the walk to the Marina for another day. Besides, we had made reservations that night for one of the restaurants at the Marina Grande that picks you up in a car to take you down to the beach and back up again after dinner.

Our bartender, Giovanni, had made the reservation. After some mahjong and a drink the car came and wound all around the town for probably 15 minutes before getting to the restaurant. We really believed we were at the wrong place – far from the marina/beach just below our hotel. We would learn the day after next that the walk down to the Marina Grande was a fairly easy 15 minutes from the hotel (the one we abandoned just before). Quicker than the car.

• 

The Restaurante Zi Ntonio Mare was wonderful. One of their specialties is the local white fish (don’t know the equivalent – but much like a sea bass) baked under a mound of rock salt. The waiter breaks up the salt at the table, filets and serves it to the plate.

What a meal! The first or second best of the trip. The delicious local white wines are pictured so we can remember and see if they are available in the States. A lovely meal in a lovely environment. Always glad to have restaurant staff who consider their jobs a “real” profession.

The car took us back to the hotel up the same convoluted route – the only way to drive down to the Marina. The weather forecast was much better for the next day when we would meet Paolo for a full day along the Amalfi Coast and visits in those special towns. Make sure you don’t oversleep your alarm. See you at 9.