Boarding in Antwerpen

Posted on July 15, 2024 by jfdowshen

After a great couple of days in Brussels we make our way to join our ship, the Viking Kvasir to begin our meandering journey from Belgium into the Netherlands (first stop Antwerpen [Antwerp]) with couple of quick stops in Germany. The Kvasir is a beautiful ship (as are all the Viking fleet), with cabins that are marvels of design and engineering. Getting so much, so comfortably and efficiently into a relatively small space is a marvel.

There are about 180 people on board with an average age of 67 (we’re finally beating the averages) ranging from 18 to 90+.

Usually with river cruises on Viking, it’s pretty easy to understand if you’re doing the Rhône or the Thames, but in the Rhine Scheldt Delta, the question always is, “What river are we on?”

With the Rhine in the Netherlands, it’s different since the Rhine waters scatter in every direction as you enter the Low Countries. The land in Holland, often below sea level, has to be managed by uncannily creative ways, for beyond the dikes and a kid’s wet and sore thumb. I’ve a feeling we’ll be learning a lot more about it.

Our first port, while still in Belgium is Antwerp, one of the world’s major seaports (population of ~11.9 million). The photo above right shows one of the sea walls by the river and the contrasts between old and new — in both business and art. The modern, rounded apartments sell for well over two million.

The old town and the Grote Markt are a maze of narrow and winding streets and medieval guilds houses.

The city hall is beautifully guided and be-flagged.

Belgium’s largest church, the gothic Cathedral of our Lady is stunning with the riches of the church and priceless art works, both classic and modern,

I know we all see wonderful examples of Peter Paul Reubens in museums around the world including the massive collection in the Barnes in Philadelphia. Most are pastoral scenes and scores of saftig, naked women. But his religious paintings are spectacular and a very important part of the Cathedral of Our Lady‘s collection.

Two large triptychs and several others.

Plus an eclectic collection of modern works, whimsical and reflective.

Antwerp is also known for two of life’s greatest indulgences; chocolate and diamonds. Belgian chocolate can’t be called Belgian chocolate unless it is produced, by law, under the strictest of regulation. And, the Jewish diamond cutting industry still is centered here.

Our Antwerpian adventure continues tomorrow. Get some sleep.

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An Eye on Brussels

Posted on July 12, 2024 by jfdowshen

Another beautiful morning…and day, especially for our tour of the center of Brussels. The bus whisked us by and through the Centrum with just glimpses of the grandeur of the city; the grand palace, the cathedrals, art galleries and museums (they’ll be here for our next, more focused visit).

After Belgium declared its independence from the Netherlands, Brussels became the capital, and after WWII became the home of NATO, which brought wealth and influence to the city.

Our first stop was at the site of the 1958 World’s Fair and its central image (depicting one of the major themes of the day), the Atomium. It’s actually enormous with stairways between the electron shell observation spheres. We simply enjoyed the view and the glorious day.

We moved on into the Centrum, stopping to walk past busy cafes, 16th century houses, outdoor markets. Lots of contrasts in this city as you walk past beautiful art nouveau buildings and unremarkable construction from the 1970s.

We entered the Royal Galleries of Saint Hubert, rubbing the arm of the boy who sacrificed his life for the city (to ensure your return), and another boy who helped save the city from a devastating fire…the only way he could.

The Galleries had beautiful, immaculate designer shops and the best examples of the all important, chocolate, macaroons, frittes, and waffles!

Marsha had toppings of strawberries and Chantilly cream. Mine, chocolate and chopped nuts.

Bonnie and Steve were mesmerized by the macaroon displays, and basically tried one of each.

While chomping our waffles we noticed behind us the rather unremarkable brick building housing the Hotel Amigo (that we would have just ignored) until we were told it is Brussels’ only 5-star hotel!Royalty and celebrities stay there regularly. It was really made famous by a photo of The Rolling Stones Keith Richard’s waving from a window. A Mercedes Maybach standing by the entrance was our only clue as to the building’s lofty status.

We had great views of the Town Hall and Royal Palace, and other impressive architecture.

In the afternoon, Bonnie and Steve spent quality visiting and touring time with her dear old friend (a resident of Belgium, about an hour’s drive from the city) and her delightful family (we spent a bit of time with them and felt like we were related within minutes).

We decided to walk up a Main Street to find “The View” of Brussels Ferris Wheel – reminiscent of the London Eye. We were excited by the fact it was operating, so we got some spectacular views of the expanse of the City, including the Old Court House with its golden dome, one of if not the largest structure in Europe. We saw it looming over the city as we entered the day before. It is under intense and needed restoration that’s probably going to last the next 4 or 5 years.

We really were exhausted after our first (seven miles of walking) full day, so we ended with a light, Poke Bowl dinner, realizing (surprised) it was just about 10 pm (that’s when the sun sets in Brussels this time of year). So down for the night, hoping to erase some more of the jet lag. We have the morning tomorrow and an afternoon boarding of our ship (in Brussels — we were supposed to drive a couple of hours to Antwerp to board, but the ship had to be diverted to Brussels — nice for us).

So we’ll see you tomorrow as we set off toward the Netherlands, eventually to Amsterdam, with lots of stops on the way.

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We’ve Musseled Our Way in

Posted on July 10, 2024 by jfdowshen

The payoff after a 24 hour journey that felt more like a week! Travel would be so great if you only didn’t have to, well…travel! Let me just say, it never gets old, as most of you know. No boring details, just delayed flights with contradictory update communication, six hour airport wait, missed connection, missing boarding pass, security body searches in Frankfort, disgusting airplane food, delayed baggage retrieval….

But, made it to Brussels just a couple of hours late, and all’s smooth from there.

The Wiltcher’s Steigenberger hotel is a spectacular 150 year old hotel in the center of Brussels with spacious, comfortable rooms with their own patios…more like gardens.

We wandered the area in a state of serious jet lag scoping out the restaurant scene, the fancy shopping area, the uh oh pastry shops, and of course, the wonderful chocolate purveyors.

The decision was made to eat dinner at 3 pm since we wanted to avoid a later drowning by head drop into a bowl of soup. Thus the enormous pile of mussels in white wine and butter with perfect Pom frittes and glasses of brut cava and delicious Belgian beer.

More preventative walking and shopping (dark chocolate pralines). Back to the hotel at 8, trying desperately to remain upright until 10. Tomorrow, a morning organized tour of the city and an afternoon of exploring while awake with a long-time, dear friend of Bonnie’s who makes Brussels her home.

Amazing, we just found the live semi-finals of the European Football Tournament (UEFA) between England and the Netherlands on TV. If the Netherlands wins, we’ll be in the country for the final. We’ll see how it will affect our visit schedule? We’ll probably be asleep by halftime, so see you tomorrow!

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