Khmer Architecture and Sculpture Genius (Angkor Hot!)

We drive away early from the hotel for our much anticipated two days of spectacular Cambodian Wats. We transfer to a small bus/van to better fit in the small parking areas. It’s a short drive through the town of Siem Reap that is now burgeoning with new hotels. From two about 20 years ago to well over 100 now. We actually pass some of the Khmer Rouge “Killing Fields” and areas where there were about 1 million land mines placed. Gladly past we reach our first and key stop, Angkor Wat.

  
It took about 1/2 hour to get our pictures taken for our three-day pass to the area (hanging around our necks). Angkor Wat truly does epitomize the Khmer architectural genius.

  


The 850 meter inside wall displays the finest of narratives of all the temples. 

  
Sandstone carvings of hundreds of sensual apsaras of celestial dancing girls with ornate jewelry and hair styles adorn the walls.

FYI, this is no cake walk day. The temperature is already over 100 degrees with little shade. Even the guards and guides and locals are dripping with sweat, copious amounts of water being consumed. Some of our group drops off when the climb to the center begins.

  
A lot of very steep steps (you could only imagine what the original worshippers did when the wooden stairs were not available. We waited close to 45 minutes to get to the foot of the stairs in a long queue.  

 
The views were well worth the climb and the heat for sure.

  
Still a working place of worship. The complex originally dedicated to the Hindu God, Vishnu, the protector of creation. The five-towered temple is shaped like a lotus bud.

  
We spot a couple of weddings on the temple grounds. Here’s one beautiful Cambodian bride posing for photos.

On our way to lunch and the next temple of Angkor we stopped at a place built specifically to train Cambodian youth, especially those with physical challenges to become specialized crafts persons.

   
 
Soapstone and wood carving, laquer work, weaving, porcelain decorating, and may more crafts all have workshops going on. The enormous shop is filled with really beautiful pieces of the real thing (rather than what you find in most of the tourist areas).

Then a stop for a delicious five-course lunch at a gorgeous Cambodian restaurant.

    

Part of the restaurant’s decor and allure.

  

The next stop is Banteay Srei that some call the City of Women, but the original name of this Shivaite temple is the City of Shiva.

  

It’s brutally hot now with a lot of dehydration going on in our group (how much can one drink). But, how can one not push on to explore the incredible, sacred beauty of these temples.

  

Then a quick stop along the road-side where some local villagers show their beautiful work. We can’t resist buying some baskets and soapstone carvings. They ask so little for their work you almost want to give them more.

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Helping mom break up palm nuts to make palm sugar for sale.

Now a short drive to the Bayon temple, the last great Angkor architectural style. It does show a little less of the spectacular materials and workmanship, but still of immense beauty.

  

And, it’s the place to go to climb up for spectacular sunsets.

  

We hang around for almost an hour after climbing to the top with dozens of foreign tourists; lots of Japanese, Korean, Chinese – and we meet a young girl from Brooklyn traveling the area alone, and a couple from Turkey who have been everywhere.

  

What a beautiful place to unwind and cool down as the packed day ends. The sunset wasn’t so spectacular, but everyone is satiated, sweaty and fulfilled. Back an hour and a half through Siem Reap and all its contrasts. Eating light tonight and going to bed early as tomorrow will be as filled with goodies as today.
 

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Hanoi Hilton – No Place to Stay

 The Hoa Lo Prison Museum was our contemplative/somewhat depressing first stop this morning.

   

The original name for the facility under French rule

 

The infamous prison is located in the old downtown, not far from where we were staying. It was built by the French administration in 1896, originally intended to hold 450 prisoners.

   

An original entrance to the “Hold”

 

By the 1930s the the number of detainees had soared to almost 2,000, the majority political prisoners. During the Vietnam war Hoa Lo became notorious as the place to incarcerate downed US pilots who nicknamed it the “Hanoi Hilton”.

  
   
Most of the prison complex was destroyed in 1997 to make way for another building, but the architect maintained enough to the structure to be preserved as the prison museum.

  

Most of the exhibits are a pretty horrific array of shackles, whips, the guillotine above, instruments of torture, and cells that held men and women prisoners.

  
 A part of the museum is devoted to the “American Period” – blatantly showing how well US prisoners were treated (including Senator John McCain) vs the brutal treatment shown the Vietnamese by the French. At first I felt a bit angry since we know the “humaneness” of the treatment of our pilots is greatly exaggerated. Then I thought, what the hell were we doing there…and when will we ever learn….

On a lighter note, we hopped onto some bicycle rickshaws to take a tour of the old inner city.

  
As hokey as it may appear it is truly a great, very interesting way to explore a place like this.

 

Street shoe repair

 
And absolutely the best way (besides walking) to get a feel (hopefully not too much of the mind-boggling, law-bending traffic and traffic (impressionistic) patterns of Vietnam.

For an even better representation, click on the link below for some live action from the perspective of a rickshaw.

A Rickshaw’s Perspective

A good night’s sleep and a short plane ride to our ultimate destination; Siem Reap and Angkor Wat. See you there.

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Hello Hanoi

Off to the Ho-Chi Minh mausoleum. Thousands of people. Very, very regimented. No cameras, no food, lined up 2 by 2 and single file past his mummified remains. He actually asked to be creamated with his ashes scattered partly in the north and partly in the south, but as the great unifier he was laid in-state in 1975.

 

The Resting Place

 
 

School kids lined up to see the great unifier

 
  
Instead of living and working in the sprawling President’s Palace, Ho-Chi Minh resided in…

  
…the very modest Stilt House. As the President of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam he arranged for this wooden structure to be built in the corner of the Palace’s grounds. The people called it “Uncle Ho’s House”.

  
The One Pillar Pagoda was built by the emperor in the 11th century. As the name suggests it stands on a single stone pillar. Unbelievable, the structure was burned by the French in 1954.

  
The many armed Buddah in One Pillar Pagoda.

Later in the afternoon we pushed off again to go to the Vietnamese Water Puppet Theater. It turned out to be a beautiful experience. 

  
The musicians and singers were top notch. They provided the musical and voice accompaniment for the puppets.

  
The figures are controlled by multiple puppeteers behind the curtain, in the water, using long bamboo poles and some wires (that you really never see). To give you a good idea, click on the video below.

Vietnamese Water Puppets

Tomorrow morning we’re off to see the infamous “Hanoi Hilton” (prison), then off to the airport for our short flight to hot Cambodia (it’s in the mid to upper 90s there right now…a bit different from the pleasant 60s and 70s here.

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