Welkom aan Boord!

Van harte welkom! Yes a warm welcome to join us (on board) on a new journey from Brussels to Amsterdam on a Viking longship.

We’re leaving the US this coming Tuesday, July 9th, escaping the crazy heat wave (and other crazy stuff), arriving in Brussels on Wednesday where the daytime temperature will be in the low 70s (can’t wait). We’ll spend a couple of days checking out the sights, sounds and tastes of Brussels before we board our ship on the 12th. Most of you were with us when we used a Viking ship to explore the Rhone from Lyon to the south of France a few years ago. We’re anticipating this trip to be just as spectacular.

We’re going with our good friends Bonnie and Steve (who were with us on the Rhone), prodding each other to make the most of our stops in Antwerp, Maastricht, Wesel, Rotterdam, Kinderdijk, and finally, Amsterdam. We’ve got lots of great side trips booked along the way, including some e-biking in Holland.

So yes, imagine putting on a warm sweater in the evening and joining us for a walk (in some wooden shoes?). We can’t wait for you to join us.

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Syracuse…It’s Also Greek to Me

The changing hands of Sicily, where one culture would build on another. The Greek temple before this church left (recycle, recycle) these doric columns as supports when building anew. More evidence abounds inside too.

Newer corinthian columns on the newest/front entrance of the duomo. The arches, moorish floors, diverse side chapels reflect a true hodge podge of good taste from rotating cultures.

Neatly displayed relics as we walked back into the old city center…and had to make a decision. We had read about an amazing Caravaggio on display in a main city church. Being one of Marsha’s and my favorite painters we asked Vanessa how far it was from us. We were on the island below her left hand, and she was pointing to where the painting was. It was, at least, a half hour’s walk in each direction. So we decided to explore the wonders of the ancient city instead. And we did have a very special visit to a renowned local vineyard in the afternoon. This was after all our last full day. Yikes.

An eclectic walk around town found us in the Fish House Art Gallery (wondered if our master fish ceramic artist, Alan Bennett had work there), looking at views from the two parallel bridges connecting the new city to the old, strolling the port area, and looking from the water’s edge to another last look on a blue sky day at Mt. Etna’s remaining snow and ever-present smoke.

From Athena’s fountain to the fortress at the very tip of the island where we found a modern rendition of a giant Icarus proudly protecting the now very peaceful and beautiful city.

The very ancient Pupillo winery was much, much more than just a place to taste their product. We spent at least an hour wandering what was more an arboretum and museum.

We picked, and ate, ripe and delicious loquats and oranges.

And wondered at the structure as succulents peeked back at us…wonder what it was thinking?

Inside to look at some of the very old wine making stomping vats and presses. Nothing more enticing than purple feet in those days…i guess.

Finally time to taste the liquid genius of the vineyard’s labor.

A delicious dry and limestone white. A surprisingly dry with gentle citrus nose rose. And a really spectacular red. Our guide, Vanessa got information on very limited distribution in the US.

The tasting was less sipping and more glass fulls so the ride back to the hotel was very relaxed. We made ready for our farewell dinner, as SmarTours closes most of its adventures. It was a nice meal of pasta, veal, wine, and Sicilian “gelato”, with little dairy, almost like a granita, but smoother. We shared contact information with each other…and hope we really get to see some of the very special people we met the special island in the future. Some of us would leave for an early flight to Rome from Catania, while others would continue their adventure with more days in Malta.

Without question, Vanessa was the best tour guide we’ve ever been with. She felt the same about us and the group as you can tell by the farewell tears from almost everyone.

So farewell to you too from spectacular Siracusa in very special Sicily. We are so happy you could join us on another adventure filling us with so many memories, and with an eagerness for more. We do have some plans that will bear fruit soon. We’ll give you time to make plans to join us. In the meantime, Arrivederci!

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UNESCO KNOWS – RAGUSA AND NOTO

We made out way across the agricultural countryside toward the distinct two sides of Ragusa. Ragusa Superiore, a real working town, relatively modern with grid patterned streets, as opposed to Ragusa Ilba, a UNESCO protected, historic city center (above). As you can see, the Ilba district is above a hill (set there originally for its own protection), only reachable by a multiple switchback road.

St. George sets the theme, reflected on the ancient city gate and in the impressive Duomo.

Our visit to this massive structure, reached by a long, steep set of steps ends with an attack by a large visiting school group of teens. I really don’t know why they singled me out, but they were as charming as can be trying out a bunch of their memorized English phrases, and begging me to respond. One young, maybe 14 year old, kept telling me he loved me, and paper and pens were out for autographs. They were interrupted, thankfully, by a fairly stern teacher, and we were all on our way with high fives and peace signs.

We stopped, of course, for some good eats before our continuing trek toward the beautifully baroque town of Noto.

Another UNESCO protected town, welcoming with gorgeous floral walkways leading to the original gateway to the city.

The wonderful baroque architecture was apparently used as settings for the Sicilian series, Detective Montalbano. I haven’t read or seen them, but I think I know who probably has and hope she will put in her two cents here, hmmm?

We ended the day tired and not too hungry, so we ventured out of the hotel looking for a simple pasta place to weight us down for bed. The concierge recommended a small place just a couple of blocks away, that we could not find. So we walked another block and saw this really beautiful looking bistro that seemed to be a combo of Italian and French. We were afraid it would be too much, but the menu was so reasonably priced (and mouthwatering) that we were charmed to stay by a very charming waitress who explained the English version of the menu and the specials.

Marsha had the red chard pie with smoked scamorza and parmesan fondue…and that was enough with an amazing local white wine. I started with the carob honey marinated beef tartare with two Dijon mustards and bee pollen. Then I had the special of fresh grouper in home made giant tube pasta with a delicate red sauce. We went to bed very happy, and ready to explore our final stop, Siracusa (Syracuse) tomorrow. It’s really going too fast.

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