Around the World with Marsha & Joel

Anchorage. A “big” city, the most populated in the state (c. 300,000 residents – 40% of Alaska’s total population) does have a somewhat cosmopolitan feel. Some almost high-rises, busy city streets, tough to find parking, chain stores and eclectic boutiques, and really good eateries. They tout the fact that you can now drive to Anchorage from anywhere in North America via the “fully-paved” Alaska Highway. It is a great jumping-off point for most Alaska adventures.

We picked up our Jeep Cherokee rental after breakfast and drove off to explore the city. Our first stop was the Visitor Center where we were able to catch a Capt. James Cook walking tour to the monument in his honor at the harbor. Our guide, in full colonial costume, was an enthusiastic Cook student. We learned a lot. Although a somewhat controversial figure, Cook changed the way the world was seen and navigated. His three circumnavigations of the globe included at least two stops in Alaska

The Anchorage Museum had two amazing exhibits. One was a display of Alaskan native artifacts from the Smithsonian. A terrific collection with films and interactive interpretations. Ocean gyres of plastic debris in the sea was the focus of the other exhibit. Artists used plastics they find to create work made from this flotsam. It’s just amazing how wide-spread this plastic plague has become.

We headed off toward Talkeetna near the southern edge of Denali National Park. On the way we stopped for a hike to Thunder Bird Falls. It was a beautiful walk through the woods.

And even this warning didn’t deter Linda who is very afraid of heights.

Getting to the falls was worth the climb, and took us from our city to our nature mode again in anticipation of the wonders of Denali.

We arrived at our hotel in Talkeetna in overcast and drizzle thinking any views of the Alaska Range of mountains and McKinley/Denali itself would not be happening. So we got settled and went into town to eat at the recommended Roadhouse. It was closed so we went to the Wildflower Cafe almost next door. They had halibut in the form of fish & chips (house specialty). They were absolutely delicious; very light breading and thick, juicy, perfectly-cooked halibut…so much better than the overdone, overpriced piece at Chinooks. We’ll do the Roadhouse for breakfast.

Talkeetna is a real throw-back kind of town (think hippie). It is the starting point for people making the climb up McKinley. They usually fly from here to base camp.

On our way back from dinner to the hotel, as I mentioned before, we saw people parked all along the side of the road. This is what they were looking at…

McKinley (aka Denali) What a sight — and over 125 miles away. We stood out in the drizzle for the better part of an hour just watching the light and the clouds change. Hoping it’s a harbinger for things to come as we move closer and closer tomorrow.

Woke up on land for the first time in a week, and lucky us to be in Seward. It’s a tiny town with huge links to the water, fishing and the fjords. The Alaska SeaLife Center is a wonderful place at one end of the mile-long, four-block wide city. It’s both a research and educational center funded through Exxon Valdez reparation money. An exhibit shows how the effects of the disaster are still being felt today. We spent a couple of hours totally engrossed in the exhibits, talks, the animals and fish, and peeks into the research and rehabilitation areas. Could have spent the entire day.

But, we had to find the shuttle that would take us to a guided ranger walk to Exit Glacier, a few miles down the road.

While walking the streets we started to see some wonderful murals – this one across from the SeaLife Center.

This one honoring the fishing industry has a sign explaining that Seward is Alaska’s mural capital. Really interesting for a tiny fishing village.

The shuttle took us the six miles to the Exit Glacier Nature Center just in time for the ranger walk. The volunteer who led us had a library’s-worth of knowledge about this local ecosystem and glacier activity in general.

From the first overlook to Exit Glacier. We asked why it was called, “Exit”. In 1968 the first mountaineering party to succeed in crossing the immense Harding Ice Field (that feeds the Exit Glacier among many others) used this glacier to exit. Pretty basic, but thus the name.

The valley left by the retreat of the glacier is covered by the layer of silt and pebbles carried by this glacial runoff “river”. the water is so full of ground up minerals at this point that it can’t support any animal life.

We make it just to the end of the trail at the toe of the glacier, but the park volunteer had spent so much time giving interesting information that we couldn’t linger (as we would have liked) since our return shuttle was waiting. (Missing that we might have missed our train).

So we stored this amazing sight in our mind’s eye and walked quickly back thinking about how alarmingly this glacier (and most of the others) has been receding over the last two decades. The message is becoming very, very clear that global warming is happening, and is being enhanced by human activity. It’s up to all of us to reduce our contribution to it.

At the SeaLife Center…and apropos.

We made it. Our Golden Dome service on the Alaska Railway. Our bags had been checked through by the hotel and we just had to show up for our late afternoon departure to Anchorage.

It’s truly worth the extra fare to be in the dome. The high, wide open views and the ability to go outside on a platform make for a fantastic journey through this Alaskan wonderland.

The train is immaculate and carries crew members who act as tour guides pointing out sights and answering questions.

Even eating dinner (delicious by the way) in the dining car continues to allow amazing views. That mountain with the Yankees logo is another Alaskan wonder.

We pass by glaciers and ice-fields…

…waterfalls…

…glacial streams…

…and mountain tops.

And, chug on through another glorious Alaskan sunset toward the bustling city of Anchorage.

Our last day at sea — sailing toward Seward — last chance for on-board explorations….

Sorry to scare you with this not exactly stunning selfie, but the Holland America Line Foundation sponsored a 5K money-raising walk on-deck for the fight against cancer. We happily donated and participated in the 12-laps around the quarter-mile deck. By the way, Linda almost lapped us.

We attended our last culinary show on the Flavors of the Northwest, coming away with recipes for herb crusted scallops and Dungeness crab cakes. Let us know when you can come over for dinner.

We saw a great film about Glacier Bay produced by the National Park Service, and had our last Sip & Savor wine tasting, this time with shrimp, capers and spring onion bruschetta. Always a great way to ease into dinner.

After a final gargantuan breakfast (I actually only gained 3 pounds this week) we departed the Statendam in a surprisingly organized/easy fashion. Our Seward hotel shuttle was waiting and took our luggage to the hotel while dropping us off at the small boat harbor where we would board the catamaran taking us into the Kenai Fjords for a six-hour adventure.

At the harbor on a gorgeous day with the Statendam in the background.

Toward our catamaran. The boats that take you into the Kenai Fjords National Park are all boarded by park rangers who are expert in all phases of the geography, wildlife and flora of the area. They offered insights all day and knew just where to find the local critters.

On our way, leaving the harbor quickly behind. These catamarans can really move.

Our first look at some of the glaciers and ice fields forming the fjords.

And the beautiful geography left behind.

A glacier at work. A fjord is actually a body of water surrounded by rocky cliffs created by glaciation. Nowhere better to see the results than here!

We slow down as we reach the head of the Holgate Glacier (if memory serves me right). No better day to see the strikingly blue ice – although a cold wind sweeping down from the glacier defied the sun.

A quiet moment to just look and wonder and listen.

As we move away the captain spots a pod of orcas (killer whales) cavorting off our starboard.

Soon after, a blow and a fluke of a humpback.

We settled in for a surprisingly delicious lunch prepared right on-board — delicious grilled salmon and a succulent boneless ribeye, carved to your liking, sides and desserts. All you could eat.

As our ride continued the ranger pointed out two kinds of puffins, bald eagles, kittiwakes, and cormorants.

We saw this “king of the rock” fight between steller sea lions, and sightings of sea otters and mountain goats. It was a great day for viewing. Wish I had my long lens.

And, what would a Kenai Fjord trip be without a blue glacier ice margarita? The ice was fished out of the water by the crew (so they say).

Not big margarita fans, but who could resist.

What a special way to spend a day. We cruised back to the harbor, found the shuttle to the hotel, and later into town to eat at the highly touted “Chinook” restaurant. A nice, friendly local place. But, sad to say, the recommended fresh halibut was overcooked. My quest for deliciously prepared Alaskan halibut goes on.

Tomorrow…exploring Seward and boarding our evening Gold Dome train to Anchorage.