Just back from our astounding trip, I was reading the New York Times and came across the following OP/ED piece. It gives some very frightening insight as to where Guatemala has been in the last couple of decades (Mayan genocide), and how slowly things change. This unusual indictment of a recent bloody dictator will hopefully grab the world’s attention.
It’s our last full day in Guatemala as we make the winding trek down from the highlands of the Mayan Indians to the Colonial city of Antigua; a stark contrast from where we’ve been.
On the way we make an unofficial stop at an enormous coffee plantation. The red beans are ready for harvest and to make their way to Starbucks (that uses predominately Guatemalan beans). Our driver thinks he knows a way we can “sneak” onto the plantation (and not pay the exorbitant fee charged by the “Gringo” owner for a “touristy” tour). Unfortunately we are stopped by a guard, but get to see enough.
Our first sight in Antigua; the church Merced de Antigua (Convent of the Mercy). It was first built in 1548 and subsequently destroyed twice in the earthquakes of 1717 and 1773.
The church has been restored beautifully as you can see by this view overlooking the courtyard.
Looking in the other direction from the balcony you get a great view of a truly active volcano (part of that cloud is actually steam that is almost always rising from the crater. If you look closely, you can see a lava flow toward the left side.
The convent also has a ton of avocado trees like this one full of ripe fruit. We’ve never had better avocados than at meals here. When they are part of a dish, you don’t just get a few pieces, you are served at least an enormous half or more. You can probably see Marsha salivating.
A main street in Antigua, influenced by colonial Spain and now a very wealthy city. Those humble looking storefronts contain some of the finest and most expensive hand-work of the Mayans and designer “stuff” from around the world. We also take a look (a look only) in the jade factory. Spectacular stones and stories. Factoid: the upper class Mayans showed their wealth and power by drilling into their teeth and inlaying pieces of jade. Ouch.
Nice use of old ox carts.
Gullible? The joke works on Marsha and fellow-traveler, Wendy. They believe us when we say the un-restored building behind is our hotel for the night.
This really is the beautifully restored luxury hotel (Casa Santo Domingo) that once was the immense monastery of the same name. They serve a spectacular lunch. I have the pleasure of another Pipian, this time with beef and big chunks of local vegetables. Can’t wait to make it at home.
Wandering the hotel grounds after lunch we discover this local artisan who produces some of the most beautiful weaving in all of Guatemala. It’s fitting for a hotel that charges up to $4,000 a nite for some of it’s rooms. We find a beautiful main chapel area set up for a wedding that night. Can’t imagine the cost, but can imagine the guests we see staying there not too worried about the bill.
The gorgeous grounds of the hotel have been tastefully restored into a cultural zone including several small museums, subterranean crypts, artisans’ workshops, exhibitions of local textiles and crafts, and an art exhibition space. What a great place to wander.
The museum of Maya art and modern glass in the complex exhibits Maya artifacts and ceramics with contemporary glass-works influenced by them — a wild, but terrific concept that certainly works for us.
Look closely at the threads and intricate weaving being produced on this traditional back-strap loom. It takes week upon week to complete one of her spectacular woven pieces.
Marsha makes a last run at the local market. It’s pretty pedestrian with no special goods to offer. But full of spectacular color and beautiful faces. Some things you just don’t have to pay for.
Like I said….
The town square is famous for its fountain with water streaming from women’s breasts. We don’t ask why.
Some young girls in beautiful local dress walk away as we start getting ready for our departure from Guatemala tomorrow morning. It was a wonderful, and memorable trip. We are so happy you could join us…. By the way, we stop in Miami on the way home. We’ll be spending almost a week there visiting some relatives and exploring some new sights and some places we haven’t been in years. If you’re interested, check out the final blog of this trip with some highlights of our stay.
Here’s where our guide, Carlos, is special. We were finished with the Solola market at lunch time and theoretically had the rest of the day on our own to lounge by the pool or the lake or to do more shopping. And Carlos could have gone off for a nap or an afternoon with his friends. Instead, he asked how many of us would like to chip in to hire a boat to see a real, working local village on the lake. All 12 raised their hands and we chipped in to hire a boat for another special adventure.
It was windy, so the lake gets a bit of of agita. I think it’s fortuitous since we can’t go straight across to the tourist-oriented town people usually go to for shopping. Instead we follow the shore for half an hour toward the much quieter San Antonio Palapo. The houses and boutique hotels along the way are pretty impressive.
A few of them are only reachable by helicopter and cost thousands of dollars a night.
We disembark at San Antonio and start walking this really picturesque town. We see a man in the local dress (almost a uniform) of a blouse and skirt. Take a look at the boy in front of him. He’s kicking a soccer ball right at the edge of a 20 foot drop to the lake. I’m worried about what happens if the ball goes over?
We’ll of course it does…and he just jumps down after it. He casually snatches it from the water and runs back up the rocky hill to start the process over. Do you let your kid kick a soccer ball next to a cliff that drops off to the sea?
We climb an uphill alley and discover the local pottery; San Antonio Ceramica. The studios are jam-packed with green-ware ready for glazing and firing. Marsha is impressed by the quality of the thrown and molded ware.
Yes, this is their retail shop. We have to be careful to not step on or fall over the work. It’s very beautiful and skillfully made stuff. We negotiate (but not much…it’s so inexpensive) for a few pieces to add to our collections. Everyone is happy.
On the way out we catch a glimpse of one of the artisans doing some glazing.
Around the next corner we come across a family doing some weaving. We can’t believe the prices…so low for all the work. We know we have to bargain, but fight the urge to pay more than the asking prices. We walk away with some beautiful, colorful woven pieces.
We take a very leisurely stroll around the town. Two women in the local dress. Each town does have its own “dress code”. Blue is the color here.
A few of the houses are constructed in an adobe-like fashion. Just a bamboo frame with dried mud and a tin roof. I guess it works here.
The kids are beautiful…and friendly.
Marsha with one of the local hawkers with a volcano in the background. She sticks with us from arrival to departure. Carlos says she is a pain in the neck. We find her beautiful, charming and a true entrepreneur. She eventually sells everyone something.
Later we come across a group doing some traditional, labor-intensive back-strap looming. It takes weeks to make some of their garments.
Showing off some of the beautiful purchases on the way back. A Special day.
The sun sets over Atitlan and it’s volcanoes. Dinner, wine, and a rest before setting off for Antigua tomorrow.
