Around the World with Marsha & Joel

A walking tour of compact St. Andrews, only one mile across (about the size of Bordentown – and just a little older). The city is the home of prestigious University of St. Andrews, Scotland’s oldest institution of higher learning. It was founded in 1413 and Alma mater of Prince William and Duchess Kate.

Before exploring the University architecture and its seaside location, Michael and Hamish MacHamish give us lecture on Patrick Hamilton, member of the University. He was found under this “face of an angel” in the stone block, burned at the stake in 1528 at the age of 24. Teaching Lutheran doctrines had him condemned to death, making him the first martyr of the Scottish Reformation.

The Chapel….

The architecture of the University is a reminder of its influence on, especially, the American Ivy League.

St. Andrews Cathedral, just beside the sea was the largest and most important church in medieval Scotland.

Its graveyard provides rest even to several golf founders and personalities.

After our stay and tour(s) of St. Andrews (medieval times to the invention of golf, we make our way on another brilliant day (people are asking us to stay longer to ensure this streak of weather continues) toward our last city. And we do mean city. Edinburgh is now one of the most vibrant, happening city’s in the world. We’ll certainly check that out.

We stopped for some gelato and sorbeto to sustain us on the road as we drove by the spectacular Scottish countryside and new highly engineered bridges.

We arrived late into Edinburgh and made our way through diverse neighborhoods, old, new, middle class and wealthy into the gorgeous center of the city. That and our hotel, the eclectic, sustainable, young spirited, Tigerlily was literally vibrating with life. Some dinner at the only restaurant not fully booked on this Friday evening helped us recalibrate our age downward so we could handle the pace for tomorrow’s adventures. Get some rest.

Our destination today is the town of St. Andrews and a stay at the Old Course Hotel. But coming down from the Highlands presents landscapes and vistas right out of “All Creatures, Great and Small” and
“Outlander”. The rolling hills, trees, infinite shades of green and yellow are just mesmerizing.

The remains of the Old Packhorse Bridge, left as it now stands from the floods of August 1829, are as picturesque as you’d ever see.

A few minutes later we stopped at a sheep farm for a demonstration of the working dogs. The shepherd is a fount of knowledge although getting through his heavy brogue is a bit daunting. Since pictures are worth a thousand words, please take the time to to watch this YouTube video we took to get a true feel of what these brilliant dogs can do.

https://youtube.com/shorts/AdDtDVWieaQ?si=i0FZF14o1wsqIoYV

The shepherd/farmers are actually tenant farmers, taking care of the livestock, shearing the wool, and breeding those wonderful dogs. Their love of what they do and of the “creatures” they care for is touchingly evident. The mutual respect they have for one another is inspiring.

A welcome lunch stop in the charming town of Pitlochry for fish and chips, prawns and chips, and ginger beer helps us settle in for the rest of the drive.

The Old Course Hotel at St. Andrews as we arrive on another brilliant, sunny day with temperatures in the low 70s. The beautiful old course is teeming with people wielding sticks,

And boasts some beautiful gardens,

As well as brilliant desserts capping off a special meal at the hotel’s restaurant.

But St. Andrews has much, much more to offer than golf as we’ll be seeing tomorrow as we explore the old university town.

Continuing through the Highlands we make a not so straight bee line toward Dunrobin Castle and Gardens.

Dunrobin originated as a tower keep in the 14th century. The architect (Sir Charles Barry) of the London Houses of Parliament fully remodeled the castle in the mid-19th century. Laying out the gardens in the style of Versailles.

The place was unexpectedly amazing. We started our hour long plus walk through the castle starting with the entryway the main staircase and into the dining area.

Some of the collections and memorabilia of Lord Sutherland and the original Dukes of Sutherland.

Spectacularly designed live flower arrangements adorned rooms and halls everywhere. But the biggest surprise…

…was the gardens. We made our way down lots of stairs and walkways to explore the beautifully kept gardens.

We saw a crowd gathering as we explored the topiary and plantings and fountains, so wandered over to see a local falconer with a gift of patter wowing the crowd with a demonstration and explanation of falconry.

He introduced us to his hawk and his falcon, both of which buzzed the crowd at speeds of up to 60 mph, snatched large worms from the air and his hand, and grabbed a (fake) rabbit pulled by an audience member.

Some ruins at Dornoch as we moved along the scenic coastal road with small farms of sheep, cows and Shetland ponies on both flanks.

We stopped to explore a Dornach church with this stone In the graveyard area. The stone was an original “tailor’s measure” used to sell cloth at the local market.

For the high-light of the day we stopped at the Glenmorangie scotch whisky distillery for a full blown tour and tasting. No cameras allowed within to disturb the secrets if the barley (you can ask us later if you promise not to tell).

Then a stop at the shop, of course. And, more of course, a tasting (actually a couple of drams) of their original 12 year old and a 15 year old aged in oak barrels that held sherry. Delicious, but this area is known for its fruit and spice nose and flavors. I’m more prone to the smokiness you get, especially from Isla malts. I actually own a square meter of Laphroaig’s peat fields.

From there, a bus ride back to the hotel that was punctuated by moments of absolute quiet (with a few snores) and those of raucous laughter.

Tomorrow we continue down the eastern coast toward St. Andrew’s. We don’t have a tee time, but perhaps some tea time at the Old Course Hotel.