Around the World with Marsha & Joel

We start on a dreary morning driving from the sea level fjords of Lofthus up, up and up to the high plateau of western Norway. An all day trip that seemed longer as the coach and cars couldn’t get by, forcing someone to back up many times. We got well over tree line in I believe the largest National Park in Norway.

The temperature dropped from the 60s to the 40s as we climbed. The moonscape in this area was incredible, only interrupted by small lakes and intrepid hikers.

This is what you see behind Marsha above; one of Norways largest glaciers, a memory flash from Alaska. glaciers up close and personal.

The drive continues and as we descend we come across lots of summer homes/cabins, many that people use for cross country skiing. We eventually get into down hill ski areas where people are paying over $2 million for condos.

A truly magnificent site on the way is Vøringsfoss waterfall roaring down the mountain. Photos barely do it justice. I do have a video you can see on request.

We did have one troll sighting along the way just to prove they are real. It was friendly. We haven’t seen anymore underground people, thank goodness.

There are over 10,000 reindeer in the area. That is true.

Before getting into Oslo proper we come across the Holmenkollen Ski Jump famous in the 1994 Lillehammer Olympic Games and another 1952 Oslo Olympics. This is mind-blowing. If you think it looks frightening on TV, wait until you see it in its reality. We went to the top to look down too, but didn’t take the zip line down even though we all wanted to – because we just didn’t have time. Saw lots of people practicing cross country skiing around the venue on roller skis.

Couldn’t resist an open face sandwich lunch at a little rest-stop cafe. Beautifully made egg, smoked salmon, cucumbers and red peppers on delicious, Norwegian multi-grain bread with slatherings of butter and mayo.

And then a stop at Norway’s beloved Vigeland Sculpture Park. The Norwegian sculptor, Gustav Vigeland’s work is only on display in Norway. This park is created and installed by him. He died in 1946 and the park finally finished in. 1949. The piece above is entitled, the Circle of Life.

That is indeed the entire theme of the park; the cycle of life from pre-birth all the way to death. In fact, it seems like a bit of an un-natural life-time obsession. But, who am I to judge. Nicely done sculptures, but a bit in your face/heavy-handed.

This phallic centerpiece was carved from one single piece of granite. Took three of Vigeland’s sculptors over 14 years to complete.

A familiar passage in the life cycle.

The burden of the world on these mens’ shoulders. I’ll just butt out at this point.

The angry child. One of the ugliest sculptures in the park, but apparently one of Norway’s favorite kids. Grounds keepers are not being successful in keeping people from rubbing his hand and whatever for “luck”?

We think the gates are the best part of the park.

Lovely flowers take the edge off the rather stark nature of the park.

We continued on for a quick driving orientation on downtown Oslo, an old Viking town. It gives us a sense of how we’ll attack our free day tomorrow before setting sail to Copenhagen. We find a local restaurant for some delicious grilled salmon and Norwegian meatballs. See you on the Ferry.

Took the coach early today along the Hardangerfjord toward Utne and the beautifully located Hardanger Folk Museum.

While awaiting the ferry to Utne and the museum we explore this really interesting and old (1720) church. It’s still a bit overcast and spitting even though the weather is calling for 65 degrees and partly cloudy??? It’s Norway.

Our coach, us and about three other cars get aboard and we stay out on the upper deck to watch the dance of the mountains, clouds and water (again) – always changing – always different.

The Hardanger Museum is a well designed, apparently well enjoyed collection. The special exhibit was 1,000 bodice inserts that every woman in the area creates and wears.

They are beautifully embroidered and enhanced by gold thread, pearls (for the more affluent). There are also displays showing unique to the area clothing and headwear.

The museum guide is fantastic, a wealth of knowledge and a great personality.

From the inside displays she takes us outside (as the sun breaks out and the temperature allows us to take off our jackets) and up the hill to the actual old dwellings moved to this location.

They were mostly wooden structures with huge stone foundations to support roofs mostly covered with stone. This one has a sod roof underlain with layer upon layer of birch bark. We explore the insides that give a startling look at how people lived here hundreds of years ago. We have lots of photos of interiors that I’ll post after we get back for you anthropologists and sociologists out there. Natives then were incredibly innovative and creative. Guess you had to be.

The museum also had a modern sculpture/site installation exhibit going on that was quite remarkable. These painted totems share an amazing backdrop.

This folks, is a mouse house (as you can see by the little fellow on the rock). It’s a replica of the rock-roofed houses on display.

Before we boarded the ferry to move on to Odda we had time to look at the historic old Utne Hotel, dated 1722. A magnificent, well-preserved structure still in full operation.

The rooms were stunning and replete with antiques.

As we drove down the road toward Odda (at the very bottom of this arm of the fjord) we stopped at this “Kodak” photo spot, our luck holding with the sun roaring out and temperature well into the 60s.

Imagine being totally immersed in this kind of surrounding for a couple of days – or a lifetime.

When we arrived in Odda we were very ready for lunch. The recommendation was to go to the local fresh fish truck and get some of the (fish) wife’s fish cakes. The fresh fish and cakes were flying into local’s bags. We asked for two cakes and were asked if we were eating now. He wrapped the two heavy, hot cakes in paper towels so we could hold and bite, and charged us the equivalent of $3.00.

They were the best fish cakes we’ve ever had. Almost no filler, spiced beautifully and glistening with chopped onion. No dressing needed. We had to fight our senses to keep from ordering more (remember, another smorgasbord tonight).

Odda, lying at the very bottom of the fjord, used to be a bustling tourist spot with cruise ships docking there. When a copper plant was allowed to set up just north of the city, and other ports became more accessible, the tourist business dried up. So it’s now a good place to really see how area locals live – nice to see and interact with real people not working for your business. Hey Abyl and Miles…. This life sized chest set was just outside an elementary school, on the playground.

Odda, at the lower end of the fjord.

We drove back to the hotel on the other side of the Hardangerfjord and got an amazing view of the huge glacier on the opposite side.

This entire area of Loftus is filled with fruit orchards. There are over 800,000 apple trees planted here. They also grow peaches, plums, pears and cherries. The apples and plums we’ve been eating are wonderful.

Back at the hotel we have time to explore a bit of the area. We start on a hike to a nearby waterfall, but it’s a bit too far so we stop at this lovely church. Almost all churches in Norway are Lutheran.

Spoiler alert: VEGANS AND VEGETARIANS. STOP HERE SO YOU WON’T GET GROSSED OUT! The following are photos of the smorgasbord the hotel sets out for its guests. I ran in before the crowd to quickly get these shots. I’ve only posted a few, so you’ll have to imagine.

Also, remember the protocol of eating an authentic smorgasbord. Each of the food areas is eaten in order, usually seven courses, changing plates and utensils every time. We really did it the first night. Tonight? Maybe not.

The caviar bar, with blini.

Herring bar. Chopped egg. Curried herring, mates, in sour cream.

Cold fish: cured salmon, dill salmon, sauced salmon, white? Fish in curry.

Looks like filets of grilled striped bass.

Cold fish bar: Cray fish, calamari, crab meat, crayfish tails, fish pate, shrimp, mussels, etc.

Hot meats: pork shank and tender roast beef with gravy and lingonberry sauce.

More than seven cakes.

The cheese board, and the list goes on. Hope you enjoyed.

On our way to Oslo tomorrow.

Today was our day to start the attack on Norway’s spectacular Fjord country. We left the hotel in chilly overcast with a spitting rain. Had our luck run out? No telling about the weather here since it rains somewhere over 250 days a year!

We made our first rest stop at this spectacular rest stop, getting pretty damp – but couldn’t miss the photo op. The entrepreneur who set up this spot put in a huge rest stop knowing full well how many fjorders would pay to see it. Going one step further…

…he put in a pay toilet for about $1.50 a person, with the ability to take your credit card. Smart guy.

He also has a sod-roofed out-building, typical of the area to keep you taking photos, and hopefully drinking and needing to use the toilet again I guess. The small islands going north of Bergen have extensive oil drilling areas.

As we drive along you can see small salmon farms. Fish do make their way up the fjords, but because of the geography where the sea meets the fjord not enough oxygen enters the fjord to support many fish.

Still spitting and cool we continue through the heart of Norway’s fjord region until we get to the ferry taking us the rest of the way to Voss.

It’s probably one of the most beautiful ferry rides anywhere, even in the gloom.

The fjords are distinct from lakes because they are always at sea level, and essential fingers of the sea, even affected by the tides. Waterfalls carving down the walls of the cliffs are everywhere.

And, to look on the bright side, we get beautiful clouds cuddling up to the mountains, warming them on this chilly day. What these picturesque little homesteads are doing there and how they get supplied is a bit of a mystery.

[FYI EXTRA: A real WOW on the trip to the ferry, was going through the second longest tunnel in Norway with added surprises. It was the first time we’ve seen a tunnel that has not one, but two circles (roundabouts) in it. Imagine the enormous circular support above that space. And, even more WOW, the tunnel, somewhere in the center, actually has the longest suspension bridge in Norway (or maybe in all of Europe) emerging from the tunnel, going over the fjord, and re-entering the tunnel again on the other side. The cost to enter and traverse the tunnel – $80 US!].

The cruise through this section of the Hardangerfjorden, the longest Norwegian fjord ends in Flåm where we picked up the scenic Flåm Mountain Railway and connection to Myrdal.

Coming into Flåm, we were shocked to see that one of the largest Cunard line cruise ships was in the tiny port. As we wandered around the touristy little town, we saw lots of cruise ship tours. And groups coming back we guess from round trip scenic tours on the railroad.

The town was situated in this beautiful part of the fjord.

The hour long scenic train ride traverses 2,600 feet in elevation and passes through 20 tunnels (ruining photos all along the way). Amazing mountains (as the sun actually starts breaking through).

We made a stop at this roaring waterfall where we were surprised by the appearance of one of the dangerous underground people, singing and dancing to loud piped-in music. It gives an actor/dancer a great job and is pretty wild around this gorgeous sight. I think the Vietnam tourist group near us really believed she was as advertised. (If you blow up this photo you might see her on a rock in the top right. If not, let me know and I’ll link you to a video that tells it all).

A transfer to this beautiful, comfortable train that would take us to Gudvangen where we met our coach again for the final push through lush fruit country at the base of the fjord to our magnificent hotel, the Ullensvang.

The precursor of the hotel was started by a parish pastor who could speak English and French. As tourists found out about the area in the early 1800’s the pastor would advocate for his parish and would help travelers find food and lodging at his little guesthouse. As numbers grew he kept expanding until it became the place it is today. It’s still run by his descendants. The public rooms on the ground floor are much more a museum. Above, the queen depicted on her thrown (King’s taking the pic).

Actually the Queen of Norway frequents the hotel regularly, and in fact, was here during the previous SmarTours trip – damn, just missed her.

This is our first evening view from the back of the hotel.

FYI – these are just a few of the public areas. There is even a wine cellar with hand carved doors and a place for special dinners.

The topper of all, however, was dinner. The hotel buffet/smorgasbord is completely authentic and expansive, in a beautiful setting. We’re doing it again tomorrow and I promise some photos for you foodies (vegetarians and vegans be forewarned).

We started with aquavit and beer and then did the dinner in traditional order starting with three types of herrings, then cold fishes, cold cured meats (including scrumptious duck breast), then hot meats, salads in between, then cheeses, then sour cream porridge over cured beef, then seven types of cake, fruit and ice cream and sorbet, then coffee and teas taken to the veranda. Yes, we did do it all and waited quite a while to go to bed.

Tomorrow up Hardangerfjord to the Hardanger Folk Museum.