The Nabataeans Petra

We start our journey to UNESCO World Heritage site, Petra by taking almost an hour crossing from Israel into Jordan. The security process is long and slow, especially in this direction. A large border crossing fee, at least three passport checks and stamps, metal detectors and questioning. Then transfer to a Jordanian guide and bus for the two hour plus trip.

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The warmest and cutest part of our welcoming to Jordan.

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We drive the long, relatively new highway linking the port of Aqaba to Amman…with a steady stream of 18-wheelers moving cargo to and from the port. A stop for this view before we turn off on the winding mountain road down to Petra below. From this angle, Petra lives up to its nickname, the hidden city.

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Our Jordanian guide, Mohammad gives us a travelogue, history of Petra, and interesting insights about Jordan, its people and relationship with Israel for the full two hour trip. Then he starts in on Petra itself.

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The amazing Nabataeans literally carved this enormous complex of tombs, temples, siqs and treasury right into beautifully colored limestone. The history is interesting, but the visuals tell it all…so let’s just look at a very few of its wonders:

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As-Siq, the impressive 1,200 meter long, narrow gorge hemmed in my cliffs up to 80 meters.

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Marsha’s hand in one of the carved out water channels.

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Carved details abound reflecting a range of Classical, Egyptian, Mesopotamian and local styles.

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The Siq opens up in a surprise as the Treasury comes into view, carved right into the red cliff, amazingly protected and preserved.

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Indiana Jones look out.

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The street of facades and the Theatre. An amphitheater that can hold 7,000 people.

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Extra commentary. Succinctly put.

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It goes on and on for a fast four hours. Our guides are amazed at the smallest crowds they’ve ever seen at Petra with the most beautiful spring-like weather. Most stay away this time of year because it’s usually too cold. We truly lucked out. Lots more amazing photos if you’re interested. Will post them on SmugMug for those who are later.

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Exquisite natural rock formations and colors.

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Must support local crafters. We do.

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See the elephant? From the side, this formation looks like a fish.

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See the cute bedouin kid with a lamb?

Exhausted after our three mile walk of mind-blowing sights (it takes more than three days to cover the entire site) we head back to the bus for the trip back to Eilat with a delicious lunch stop for authentic Lebanese food. A reverse border crossing and thoughts of how to fill our free day tomorrow. No problem for Marsha, no rest for Joel. Eilat Botanical Gardens in the morning and a Red Sea cruise in the afternoon. Excuse me while I kiss the sky.

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Going South

Before we got our mystery WiFi (turns out our driver figured out how to set up a hot spot on our bus…Israelis are very ingenious) – we headed out of Jerusalem for Eilat, this time directly south instead of toward the east coast. The way is a little longer (about 5 hours instead of 3 1/2), but much more interesting. Drove through different check points through the West Bank heading around Bethlehem onto Rt. 60 toward Hevron and then Be’er Sheva. We passed the site of David’s slaying of Goliath. Stones litter the ground there as people driving by often throw symbolic stones toward Goliath’s grave.

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Past Be’er Sheva we start to see the signs of the Negev desert. Bedouin villages pop up here and there. They are not nomads anymore and are considered full Israeli citizens.

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The desert is a full half of Israel’s land mass…and is also starting to recede. The guess why is that because using diverted Galilee water to irrigate, and the more efficient desalinization process (producing cheaper irrigation water) is creating a new micro-climate in the area.

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Stopped for lunch at little rest stop just before leaving the Negev for the Arava desert. We shared our tables with some Israeli Army regulars and reserves. It’s interesting that the Israeli Air Force (we see fighter jets maneuvering deafeningly nearby) is having trouble finding places to train since the country is so small.

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The Arava is amazingly barren as we turn south east toward the Red Sea.

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Finally arrive in Eilat late in the afternoon. The view from our room looks north and east toward Aqaba in Jordan. We had passed the Eilat airport (Ben Gurion) and the Aqaba airport (King Hussein) almost touching each other. Combining them into one has been discussed.

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We take a walk along the port’s promenade to check out restaurants and pass the usual honky-tonk of beach-front resorts. We stick our toes in the Red Sea to say we have. The beaches are gravelly and not very inviting. Hard to beat US east and west coast beaches.

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We watch the sun set over Egypt, only a couple of miles away wondering how something looking so beautiful and peaceful can be in turmoil just beyond our view. Tomorrow a 5 am wake up to be able to spend the full day in spectacular Petra.

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Negev WiFi?

Really?! Sitting on the bus in the middle of the Negev desert when a WiFi signal pops up. I’m sending this as a test to see if our eyes are deceiving us. Comment if you get it. On our way to Eilat and Petra, Jordan. Will get back with more later. Hope all is well with everyone.

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