Mission, Fry-Bread, Downtown & Desert

It’s our last day in Tucson before the drive back up to Scottsdale and our visit with Jane and Michael (good friends of Steve & Arlene — and ours, and our gracious hosts last time we were in the area).

Recommended by several sources is the Mission San Xavier del Bac in the Tohono O’odham Indian Reservation.

The White Dove of the Desert

A 1783 Franciscan mission. Missionaries were forced to leave in 1828, and returned in 1911 to continue as church and school of the Tohono O’odham. The ultimate in Spanish Mission Architecture.

Interior Restoration

The story of the interior and exterior restoration is a bit of a miracle in itself. An eclectic, international gathering of historians, architects, art restorers, fund-raisers, local tribes-people and contractors, saved and created what you see.

Man in the Maze

The beautiful local symbol of the passage of life; birth through the maze of discovery, self-discovery, gathering, contemplating, and readying for the world beyond.

Fry-Bread!

I guess a Tohono way to get more quickly into the next world, but sure good slathered in honey on a cool morning.

Historic Barrio of Tucson

Back into town for a walk of the old Barrio and Presidio sections. At the edge of what’s left of the Barrio after razing most of it for the new Convention Center is a shrine to someone’s lover in an unconsecrated grave. The Barrio still has rows of brightly colored adobe “row homes” and small businesses.

Towards the Presidio

The imposing Spanish-Style of the St. Augustine Cathedral reflecting desert themes in its decoration.

Surprisingly Sparse Interior

The walls are decorated with faux paintings that do look three-dimensional from distance.

Frank Gehry in Tucson?

Down the street a pretty wild bank building that is not Frank Gehry, but pretty cool in its setting.

Modern Sculpture entering Presidio Area

One of many interesting modern installations as you enter the pristine Presidio area.

The Pima County Courthouse

One of Tucson’s most beautiful historic structures. Spanish-Colonial style with a mosaic tile dome.

Tucson Museum of Art

Around the beautiful setting of the Museum sits a cluster of charming historic homes in their original condition.

Sosa-Carillo-Fremont House

Wonderful sculptural benches in the museum square

A Last Look at the Western Park

We drive back to the park for a long loop drive and mile hike to commune with the beautiful saguaro and quiet before the drive back in congested Phoenix area traffic.

A Goodbye Handshake

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Tents, Caves, Tombstone & Sunset

An early start to a long driving day. We headed way southeast toward Bisbee (not far from the Mexican border), with a stop at the very special Kartchner Caverns State Park. Before breakfast, though, we wanted to check out the Occupy group across the street. The police were supposed to arrest the remaining lingerers at 7 am.

One of just a few tents left....

By the time we got back in the evening, they were all gone and the park as if nothing ever happened. We saw some arrests on the news later.

Truly a High Point of the Trip!

An hour southwest of Tucson is a site that makes you feel good at both the world we live in…and some of the people who protect it’s beauty. The caverns were discovered by two amateur cavers who were able to keep it secret, along with the Kartchner family who own the land, and the State government until a law was passed to turn it into a state park. The history of discovered caves is most often a sad one as people find out about them and do all they can to “destroy” them with vandalism, poaching, and commercialization. Besides being incredibly beautiful, the pains taken to keep it that way are a story in itself. If you ever have the chance give yourself a half day to enjoy this wonderful park. No cameras are allowed in the caverns so our 1.5 hour tour through will have to reside in our mind’s eye. We’ll describe it to you if you’d like when we see you.

The Peace Wall at Bisbee

Our next stop was even further south at the old copper mining town of Bisbee. The town is a real charmer, housing retired miners (some of whom give tram tours of the old Queen Mine) and old and new hippies who have converted the charming old homes to art and craft shops, cafes and bars, and little museums. It’s build on a steep, steep hillside, and just a tad more interesting than our New Hope/Lambertville communities. There is still a little copper reclamation going on, but just outside of town is a terribly strong reminder of what open pit mining can do the the beauty of our earth:

The Open Pit Speaks Volumes

Yes, We Did....

The day was getting late, we had a long ride back to Tucson, and we would have been too late to really get to see the Coronado National Monument. Soooo, the old town, Tombstone, being right on our way back, became our next stop! And it was a pleasant surprise. Touristy as it is, it is full of history and nicely restored.

The Original Bird Cage Theater

Still full of bullet holes and echoes of a gambling house, house of ill repute, and drinking place of all those remembered law-men and desperadoes.

Horses there...a lot more photogenic than the people!

Heading back, we decide to detour to see the sunset over the Gates Pass, just west of Tucson. A beautiful way to relax, wind down from the long day and to think about the next day that will end in Phoenix, really Scottsdale.

 

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Univ. of AZ & Desert Museum

Headed off to the western part of town to explore museums on the beautiful U of AZ campus, and further west to the huge, outdoor Desert Museum. A gorgeous day, starting cold in the upper 30s moving quickly to near 70 and short-sleeves. Bright, bright blue sky.

The Center for Creative Photography

On exhibit in the beautiful building was part of it’s extensive collection of Ansel Adams’ prints. Probably 50-60 of some of the most beautiful photographs of nature and National Parks. Always inspiring and awesome.

The Building

Next, across the way to the Museum of Art

Marsha and a glowing Rothko

An extensive, wide-ranging permanent collection.

The Border Project

An exciting project at the University Museum now…dealing with the Mexican/US border; soundscapes, landscapes and lifescapes. This is Arizona; the controversial land and law encouraging law enforcement to stop any non-anglo for papers proving they are legal. Yes folks. Right here in the good ole’ USA!

Discrimination to Olive Branches

Interesting juxtaposition. From the Border Project to beautiful rows of olive trees on  the campus walks.  Off to the Desert Museum….

Welcomed by a fine example of crested saguaro

Everyone else ran....

…when the mountain lion appeared. But I stood my ground, for art, and snapped away (behind the fence).

The Museum is terrific. Acres and acres of local flora and fauna. It’s everything you see in the parks, but concentrated and beautifully presented; opening up sights you might wait years to see in multiple park visits.

Javalina Sighting!

Hey Pooles…not the family we saw in the wild (parking lot), but a javalina is still a javalina…not a pig!

Cacti of every kind

Bobcats

The Eye Music of Organ Pipes

Big Horn

Purple is Always Queen

Final Museum Vista Before...

…moving into our new hotel on the west side of Tucson. Strange sight across the street (near some tennis courts in a park) — a line of pup tents and people milling around??? After dinner, watching the news we discover that an occupy movement group has been set up right here! Recent complaints have the cops coming to move them. We’ll see, and try to get some photos tomorrow.

In the meantime, we went to the Cafe Poca Cosa for dinner — on recommendation of friend Dale Norley…and the New York Times 36 hours in Tucson. Delicious, authentic regional Mexican cuisine. My Mole Negra was as good as we had in Oaxaca. However, the opening salsa was no match for the little local restaurant, Guadalajara we ate in last night. It was the best we’ve ever had, made by a Mexican woman to order at our table (part of every meal). Also, the lighting was so low we could barely see the beautiful presentation and colors the food offered (perhaps a function of age). Overall great though. Thanks Dale! tomorrow off to the Kartchner Caverns and the town of Bisbee, near the Mexican border.

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