The last time I contemplated my belly button I only found Linz. Appropriately, Linz was our first port of call as we crossed into Austria. Looking across the Danube we could swear we heard echoes (British accented) singing, “The hills are alive with….”, but probably only our over stimulated imaginations. We did have a full day to find out with a walking tour of the city in the morning and a drive into the Austrian countryside in the afternoon
Proving Linz wouldn’t be Linz without us.
Our short walk into the old city took us literally through the modern art museum, spectacular views of eclectic architecture and the age old hills.
After crossing the pedestrian overpass and brief stop in the the town visitor center with a huge map of the city on the floor, we emerged into this Hauptplatz, a beautiful city square with it’s distinctive Linz-ean architecture, monuments and functional trolley lines.
Onward by the Kremsmuenstererhaus and picturesque doorways and gates to the New Cathedral, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, a Roman Catholic, neo-Gothic structure that is the largest church building in Austria.
Part of the church’s massive interior.
Back to the boat for another incredible lunch. This wild mushroom medley was just one of the appetizers. After our mains and desserts we were happy for the coach ride through the Austrian countryside…that actually did keep us all awake.
The rolling hills led us to a beautiful country farm where the many generations of the Seyr family raise specialty grain for their local bread baking business.
These are not just any rolls…they are the ones we personally made as part of a wonderful bread making and baking class.
I think Steve is ready…for the eating at least! The farm’s proprietor and bread making master gave us detailed instructions, and chunks of pre-risen dough to make three types of rolls, the garlic butter sticks and poppy seed rounds with salt (from Saltzberg of course) shown. I must say almost all of us were surprisingly adept at getting the process right, even the intricately twisted poppyseed rolls (recipes follow).
All of our goodies were put in the oven and we were sent off to another family farm to do a different kind of tasting while we waited for our masterpieces.
We stopped at the renowned Mittendorfer distillery where they grow their own fruit to make the delicious fruit liqueurs and brandies from sour cherries, plums, pears, and a lot more. They even farm and harvest their own trees, some of which fire the old copper stills. We got a bit carried away with the sampling offered by the owner, and had quite the boisterous ride back to consume our doughy creations.
The proud, and slightly tipsy apprentices showing off their delictables. Then, to our surprise, we were sent downstairs to their gathering room where a medieval-type spread of incredible breads and a gigantic charcuterie board of every kind of cheese, meat, potato salad and special spreads were put before us like some royal visitors. We even got to bring home leftovers. Sorry, it was so exciting that everyone forgot to take photos.
Let us make up the lack of photos by offering the following two recipes. We know many of you are really good bakers and/or enthusiastic wannabes!
These were my two favorites.
We made it back in plenty of time (yes, eating leftover rolls on the way) for music and cocktails (OY), a port talk about Krems, our destination for tomorrow, dinner (OY), and a relaxing, live classical music concert. Rest and digest, for we’ll do it again when we awake. OY.