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That’s right. On this lovely day (you can’t win them all) it was only the border gate that gave us a hint that we were finally in Bavaria and on our way to Passau. The storms and downpours were pretty violent, but they only lasted for our four hour bus trip. It let up substantially as we arrived at the dock on the Danube where the Viking Embla, all shining and ready, welcomed us with champagne and treats.
That afternoon and the next morning we set off on foot to explore this magnificent old river city. Originally, in 739, a settlement of the Celtic Boii tribe. Then the Holy Roman Empire’s largest diocese. It was a center of the salt trade (“white gold”) that was transported from Alpine salt mines (yes, from Saltzburg too) to be processed here. Fire devastated the ancient city, but it was rebuilt in the 17th century to reflect the baroque character it has today.
Passau is a key place to see the confluence of three rivers:
The Danube (Donau): The large central river carrying “blue” water, that is actually a muddy brown.
The Inn (Inn): At the top left photo, rushing in from the south with distinctly bright, “green” glacial water originating from the Alps.
The Ilz (Ilz): Flowing from the north, featuring “black” water that comes directly from moorlands.
Flooding has always been a “feature” of Passau and its three rivers. Note where the record high water mark is during the 2013 flood! A resilient people live here.
Also above is the cylindrical St. Gertraud on the Danube and the Passau Town Hall.
St. Stephen’s Cathedral is a baroque church from 1688, dedicated to Saint Stephen. It is the seat of the Catholic Bishop of Passau and the main church of his diocese. it’s obviously a magnificent ediface, loaded with georgeous hand crafts and even modern sculpture, including the woman depicted in the wood carving by sculptor Andreas Kuhnlein.
The piece, titled “Lichtblick” (Light at the End of the Tunnel) was created to honor victims and stand against sexual abuse within the church. Kuhnlein’s work often depicts suffering and hope. Some introspection I’d say.
We spent the rest of the afternoon wandering the pedestrian only parts of downtown with its charming and often upscale shops. The locals love their sculpture and especially their gardens evidenced by the meticulous tending of the “Tencalla-Garten” (above).
We got back to the Embla in time to push off for our journey. We almost immediately came to our first of 13 locks we had to navigate on our way to Budapest. Marsha took a video of the always interesting changes in levels, at least 25 feet here.
https://youtube.com/shorts/vZNwxQ4b4EQ?feature=share
Before dinner all four of us attended an Apple Strudel making demonstration with a tasting (that’s why we all four attended). And then a special presentation by our program director, Marek, a special, special character who talked about growing up in Slovakia It was highly enlightening, including a look at his own museum developed with his collection of dolls in their “folkloric” costumes. The one he’s wearing was given to him by his parents at age 16. He claimed it still fits perfectly. The longboat’s senior staff welcomed us with another champagne toast, then off to work and us to dinner (all of which are locally based and spectacular).
After dinner a walk on deck presented us with the opposite of the way our arrival in Bavaria began. A harbinger of the beauty of the journey ahead. Join us tomorrow as we land in Linz, Austria, looking forward to what we’ll find.