The Embla docked at 5 am after crossing the border from Austria to the Slovakian capital of Bratislava. So far we were safe to eat breakfast and then make way for a morning walking tour of the old (and current) downtown. One of our first sights was this lovely building, the Reduta, Now a concert and multi-purpose hall that was originally a granary.
Bratislavia is filled with carefully restored baroque city places and squares that we were determined to enjoy, even in the cool, rain-threatened day we find ourselves in.
Clockwise from top left; The old building of the Slovak National Theatre.
The Hviezdoslavovo námestie, a major town square.
A sculpture dedicated to Hans Christian Anderson. The statue is one of those erected by the local town government in an attempt to throw off their austere reputation following the fall of communism in Slovakia.
Pharmacy Salvator, a neo-Renaissance building and former pharmacy in the Old Town constructed by pharmacist Rudolf Adler in 1904. The building’s facade features a stone statue of Christ the Saviour by sculptor Alojz Rigele. The upper floors contain 10 flats, partially occupied by the Slovak National Theatre employees.
[Another] St Martin’s Cathedral and the cathedral of the Archdiocese of Bratislava. It is situated at the western border of the historical city center below Bratislava Castle. It is the largest and one of the oldest churches in Bratislava, known especially for being the coronation church of the Kingdom of Hungary between 1563 and 1830. It’s a concert hall today that plays a central role in the city’s rich cultural offerings.
Our local guide pointing the way back to the Embla for those who didn’t want to linger to take in the local life downtown. We decided to hang around.
The left and center shots show Michael’s Gate, the only city gate that has been preserved of the medieval fortifications. It ranks among the oldest town buildings in Bratislava. Built about the year 1300, its present shape is the result of baroque reconstructions in 1758, when the statue of St. Michael and the Dragon was placed on its top.
On the right, the Franciscan Church is the oldest existing religious building in the Old Town of Bratislava. The church was consecrated in the year 1297 in the presence of King Andrew III of Hungary. In 1526 Ferdinand I, Holy Roman Emperor was elected here to become the King of Hungary.
We casually ended the morning abandoning further history lessons and just enjoying many, many wonderful, eclectic sights that were scattered throughout the rest of this fantastic city.
Back to the boat for another groaning board lunch, ready to set off on our afternoon visit to the Imperial Schloss Hof Palace that would also set off our bit of “mis-adventure”.
Panic….
When we were about to leave for the Schloss Hof Palace (above), the guide on the bus asked everyone to assure him that we had brought along our passports since we were crossing the border back into Austria for our visit.
The four of us went pale with panic as we discovered we were the only ones on the bus who did not have their passports. We had been late to the daily discussion about the next day’s events the night before. The bus was a long walk from the boat so we had to make a decision whether to abandon the tour (didn’t want to make everyone wait), or to chance that the guards at the border crossing (both over and back) wouldn’t ask to see passenger documentation.
“Brave” souls that we are, we decided to go on (even with the imagined pictures of a Slovakian detention center bouncing around in our heads). Why were we the only ones so hot and sweaty on this cool, cloudy day? To our relief (for now) the bus was just waved through the gate into Austria. So enjoy the photos of the Schloss and we’ll let you know the rest of OUR story later.
Schloss Hof is a palace located in Marchfeld, Austria near the border with Slovakia (tell us about it!). It once belonged to Prince Eugene of Savoy who purchased it late in his life in 1726. He had it enlarged in the Baroque style in 1729, and used it as an elaborate hunting lodge. He left it to a niece in his will, and it was later purchased by Empress Maria Theresa of Austria and became part of the imperial estates.
After we finished touring the ornate and history steeped interior we accepted a glass of champagne and headed for the large impressive grounds where the working farm, the blue eyed goats and other animals roamed right next to the wedding that was taking place just as we exited. All in the continuing effort to keep the palace afloat.
The juxtaposition was…fun!
One More Border….
The rain had held off, the palace and its grounds were interesting, different and fun, but as we boarded the bus to head back to Bratislava the fact that we didn’t have passports rose up dizzily in our four heads. We held our breath as we approached the guard gate leading back to Slovakia. The bus started slowing and we could see a uniformed guard standing in the road with his hand in the universal, “Stop” pose. Our hands started shaking as we tried to shrink, shrink, shrink into our seats. The bus driver and guide got off the bus several times, each time to gather and present some required paperwork. It took a good 10 minutes. We were sure the next step would be a guard boarding the bus asking everyone to get out their passports for inspection. (Marsha and I had experienced that same thing happening between India and Nepal, in the Balkans, and in South America – we did have our passports then).
I started rehearsing (in my head), in my limited German and english, my speech expressing our true sorrow and stupidity in “haben vergessen unseren passporten….”
But to our immense joy the driver and guide got back on the bus for a last time with the beautiful sound of the door closing and an engine starting, and us trying to breathe naturally again.
As a reward to ourselves for making it through the day we (not Arlene) ordered the chateaubriand with bernaise and some amazing desserts. Then to the upper deck to watch the Embla ease through our final lock and into a gorgeous sunset as we made our way to our final port of call, Budapest, Hungary. Join us for our final day before leaving for home with so many mostly beautiful memories.
Hmmmmm..
Where was your paper copy of the main page of your passport. ??
In ;pocket or purse???
Wow Jolene. You just reminded me that I have a copy squirreled away in the “man bag” I always carry with me! Phew. But I probably still would have been stuck bailing out everyone else! Thanks.