Around the World with Marsha & Joel

Instead we saw Lock Ness where we were told a trap was set for the monster. Gullible us as it turned out to be one of the super engineered locks on the Caledonia canal system.

So we drove off on the first overcast, damp, chilly day on our trip. We’ve been amazingly blessed with the weather. Off to the far Northern Highlands.

Before our start on a boat ride along Loch Ness we explored the ruins of the lakeside Urquhart Castle. It’s one of Scotlands most visited attractions.

Dating to before the 13th century, the castle is surrounded on three sides by water; a formidable advantage in battle.

From the castle we made our way down the hill to the boat landing to catch our booked cruise along Loch Ness. It was so chilly and overcast on the water that we all stayed below decks. It was OK because the mist made the shoreline almost invisible. Photos were out. But Marsha and I ended up sitting with a charming young couple (she from England, he from Scotland) celebrating their one year anniversary with their beautiful and well behaved dog, Max. It was time happily spent without worrying about some elusive monster.

We moved on in a much more somber mood to take in the historic Culloden Moor battle site. The above shows you the incredibly difficult conditions the men had to endure and die in.

We first spent over an hour in the beautifully designed, expansive museum with interactive displays describing everything leading to the final battle from the Jacobites point of view on one side and the government forces view on the other. A room with a realistic reenactment of the battle was extremely difficult to watch, bringing the horror of the event to excruciating “life”. We couldn’t photograph there…probably a good thing.

The battlefield itself (especially on this dank, depressing day) was much larger than expected, and maintained exactly as it was on that fateful day. Grave markers punctuated the aura. Even grazing livestock gated and moved from place to place kept the moor authentic.

The site hosted the last battle of the Jacobite Rising in 1746. Over a thousand Highlanders lost their lives in the span of an hour. It was the last battle on Scottish soil of the most famous in British military history.

We could photograph the explanation of the uniforms and armament, and descriptions of recruitment (and inscription) of troops and the people who made them up on both sides.

Filled with emotion and with the cold, we made our way to our Hotel for the next two days near Inverness. Tomorrow join us for an excursion along the Pictish trail.

No. I’m talking about our band of travelers being told that we had to have our bags outside our doors at 6 am, and that breakfast would be continental (and not ready until just before our departure at 6:30). All because we had to make the ferry to the renowned Isle of Skye.

Well, at least we made it in plenty of time, and the weather was unusually cooperative once again. We took the Mallaig ferry for about a 40 minute pleasant and scenic ride to Armadale and the Armadale Castle Gardens.

The estate is the home of Clan Donald, Scotland‘s largest clan, now cared for by the Clan Donald Lands Trust dedicated to the indigenous people, culture and heritage of the Highlands and Islands.

The ruins are indeed “preserved” ruins. It’s more a facade now as you look through the outside windows directly into the backyard.

But, the arboretum and gardens are indeed spectacular.

Even an outstanding stone wall sculpture called, Rising Lines that immediately reminded us of an Andy Goldsworthy installation.

Ah, I forgot to mention that before we arrived at the ferry and Armadale, we stopped to see the Glenfinnan Monument honoring “Bonnie Prince Charlie” (Charles Edward Stewart…the “Young Pretender”. Honored for his leadership in the Jacobite Rising of 1745.

After lunch we drove through the imposing Cuillin Hills (Black Cuillin) and returned to the mainland via the Skye Bridge.

The last stop is an inside visit to Eileen Donna Castle with its strong Gaelic influence. No photos allowed inside, but here are some outside views.

The castle was destroyed in 1719 during the Jacobite rebellions, but was restored in the early 1900s by John Macrae-Gilstrap, a senior figure in Clan Macrae.

Done after a long but fulfilling day, we made our way back to the hotel for dinner and some rest to be ready for our sure sighting of Nessie as we head for Loch Ness and Inverness.

A couple of hours out of Glasgow we set foot on, yes, the Bonnie, Bonnie banks. It’s Scotland’s largest fresh water lake and part of the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, Scotland’s first.

The church yard in the town of Luss on the lake. Michael points out the hog back stone. The Trossachs has 720 square miles of rolling lowlands to high mountains with lochs, rivers, forests and wood lands.

So wondrous wild, the whole might seem / the scenery of a fairy dream” – Sir Walter Scott

We continue on through “wondrous wild” toward the site of the Glencoe Massacre in 1692, when 38 members of the Clan MacDonald were killed over questions about their loyalty to the Protestant King William III.

On then to our final destination of the day, Fort William, the Highland’s second largest settlement.

Our hotel for the next two nights, the Cruachan. Looks quaint and cozy, but we were warned that like many hotels and guest houses the rooms (behind what you see) are clean, but claustrophobic. One tall fellow traveler laughed that the comforter on the narrow twin beds couldn’t possibly cover his feet. Good natured people in our group.

But the bar was nice and the food good enough and the town of Fort William charming.

Join us tomorrow for the Ferry to the Isle of Skye, especially you Harry Potter and Outlander fans.