Rain in Sicily this time of year is usually not the norm. If it does, it comes in drops and drizzles…except when our group starts off early to reach Agrigento, and eventually Taormina. We have a long drive ahead of us to cross the length of the island from northwest to the southeast.
Umbrellas and layers of warm clothes are in order. Fortunately most of the day will be spent in the bus.
The Temple of Juno
About two and a half windshield wiping hours we reach our first stop, the UNESCO listed Valley of the Temples. Undaunted, we don what rain gear we have, put up our umbrellas and step back into history.
The Temples lie in the shadow of the modern city of Agrigento and are considered by many, the finest and best preserved Greek temples in the world.
The marble statues on the right have no heads, not from deterioration or plunder, but because emperors were assassinated so frequently and marble so expensive, it was easier to just replace the head.
The temples were originally built to flaunt the Greek victory over Carthage. They didn’t have an easy time as they had to withstand a sack by the Carthaginian’s, mishandling by the Romans, and neglect by the Christians and Muslims. All sing now…. “We are the world….”
A modern sculptor’s Icarus who was said to crash here after his wax wings melted because he flew too close to the sun — Didn’t listen to his father’s advice!
The rain let up a bit as we began the drive further east toward the glamorous Taormina. But first a stop at rural farmhouse with quality agricultural products and to sample really traditional Sicilian foods for lunch.
Our main luncheon plate of couscous, arancini, delicious caponata, local honey, cheeses, and local meats. It was accompanied by an Etna rosso wine, olive oil produced on the farm, and the traditional local cassata cake (for you cheese cake fans).
Off now to our hotel in posh and popular Taormina, actually just north in Giardini Naxos, a little resort area near the beach.
The view of Mt. Etna from our hotel. We are literally sandwiched by Mt. Etna and the Ionian Sea (Mediterranean). The rain all day this day translates to snow on Etna as you can see. The snow will probably be gone tomorrow when we explore the peak’s active craters.
A little “light” dinner at one of many local restaurants before hitting the sack. Tomorrow we visit Etna. Hopefully she’ll be in a good, and welcoming mood.
A beautiful morning for a long ride to Trapani, the capital of Trapani province. The road along the northern coast opens up new vistas that prove Vanessa’s claim that Sicily is beautifully verdant and mountainous. The valleys start showing off miles and miles of vineyards and olive groves. This is, after all, Sicily’s largest wine area. It’s primary grape is grillo that is used for it’s crisp acidity, used for some good dry whites and for adding richness to Marsala wines.
We pass large numbers of wind turbines, and entering the newer part of Trapani see the manufacturing facilities for those gigantic wind machines. We are at the far western point of Sicily where the city was founded by ancient Elymians who said they were descendants of the Trojans. The wealth of the area was based on the salt pans by the sea still very active today. It’s very special salt say those in the know (we buy some of course).
We entered the special old city for an incredible surprise (after parking at the sprawling, but plain port area. The pristine look of being carefully cared for gave off really clean, comfortable vibes. Only two long walking streets (in the shape of a “T”) make up the area.
Beautiful churches and municipal complexes are welcoming. There are no crowds this time of year so we have a quiet reign, merging with the locals.
A church, converted (no pun) to a museum had an wonderful exhibit related to the meanings and interpretations of the resurrection, stations of the cross and more.
At the end of the pedestrian street paralleling the beach Marsha and I continued with Vanessa to her favorite bakery to buy some lunch to eat on the beach below the town wall. Local pizzas and a scrumptious aranchine (how they spell it) filled with a meat ragu. We all met up again for our primary destination, a white knuckle switch back climb up the mountain to Erice.
Erice is 2500 feet above sea level, a medieval city paved in cobblestones with mountain top palaces and fountains…and plenty of places to shop and eat.
It’s just a bit windy on top, but we’re rewarded with treats from a renowned pastry shop. Unfortunately for Marsha most of the delectable are based in marzipan (not her favorite), but delicious none the less and braced with a bit of Marsala flavored with almonds of course.
Back to the hotel to get a quick bite, pack, and get ready for a really long travel day tomorrow, fully across the Island to Agrigento and Taormina. Rest up!
After a typical European/Italian buffet breakfast (why do Italians think an espresso diluted with hot water is coffee for Americans?) we take off for a full day of exploring the central, old town of Palermo. Our hotel is on the edge of the original wall of the city near the huge, busy natural harbor. We wind our way through diverse architectural styles and morning traffic to the gateway leading to the UNESCO World Heritage Monreal Cathedral.
We’re lucky enough to enter just before we get kicked out for Sunday baptism. It’s a mix, like much of the local architecture, of 10th century Norman and 17th century Spanish styles and structure. French, Sicilian and Arab ornamentation really do tend to work together and reflect the varied, changing of the island.
We move on basking in a gorgeous day, heading toward the Quattro Canti, passing by an interesting mix of shops and local businesses. The “No Mafia Memorial” is a real thing, commemorating the “demise” of the Mafia that was marginally successful in stopping some of the brutal violence employed (although many of the law officers were murdered during the purge). One of the methods of “beating” the mob was for brave shopkeepers to post the No Mafia signs in their windows. If enough of then put them up together it eventually stopped most of the “protection insurance” business. But our guide, Vanessa, let us know that the sweep pushed the Mob into a new “economic” organization working in parallel with the usual corruption business already existing in the cities.
The other interesting store front highlighted the tradition of marionettes in Italian culture as an offshoot of religious story telling to the illiterate. The marionettes in Sicily apparently are smaller than the ones in the other parts of Italy.
The Quattro Canti, the Four Corners is at the crossing of two main streets in Palermo. Four baroque palaces are at each of the four curved corners. Each has its own fountain. Built at the time of Spanish rule, the corners each represent one of the four seasons and have a ruler and a patron saint (note the statues on three levels. It’s also the place for street performers.
Breakfast long forgotten, we move on to the Capo market (only one open on Sunday). Shoulder to shoulder patrons along a long row of vendors of the freshest vegetables, seafood and grilled meats. Places to sit and eat…and be entertained with beautiful Italian voices…reminiscent of a large wedding…no kidding.
We’re treated to mounds of chickpea fritters, fried mash potato footballs, delicious caponata, thick crusted pizza, plates of fried seafood — calamari and small octopus like the one Joel’s welcoming to….
Filled to the brim, we make a welcome walk to a collection of churches in wildly diverse architectural styles and mixes, reflecting the many changing ruling classes of the city. We all choose one to visit. Marsha and I hear the sort of plain exterior of the baroque style church shows off an amazing interior, so we climb the steps, pay the admission, and are totally amazed!
Not so bland, huh! We have many (too many) photos of this incredible interior that I’ll post at the end of the journey.
The final stop is our guide’s favorite with a wealth of gold leaf and painstakingly set mosaic images. Blow up a few of these images and be amazed. We spent a long time looking and wondering.
Then back to the hotel, starting this blog, and finding a really nice restaurant at about 8 pm, early for Sicilians (the restaurant was almost empty when we arrived, but jam packed and raucous by 9:30 when we tried to get our check and adjourn for the evening.
Of cultural interest…at least to us. As we were finishing (in the large outdoor tented area – probably Covid related), a large group of local couples and kids drifted in to a big, reserved table. The men all sat at one end with a few chairs separating the women…with the kids. What do you think?
On that note…see you tomorrow for a long trek to the far western point of Sicily, the little town of Trapani and the mountain top Erice (with, supposedly the most incredible pastries in the world…hmnmnmn).
