Around the World with Marsha & Joel

On our final morning in Stockholm we woke up to a pounding rain, brisk wind, and temperature in the high 50’s. Of course we’re up at 5:00 to be able to catch our flight to Bergen, the gateway to the Fjords. The forecast for Bergen ain’t much better. Depression sets in as we butter a roll and lay on some processed meat the hotel provides since the kitchen isn’t open yet. Even the coffee runs out.

But, as we start to board the bus, the rain becomes a drizzle and even a bright azure strip appears between two black clouds.

Our plane actually leaves about 15 minutes early??!! Lifting up between puffy, fair weather clouds. We land in Bergen an hour later to a cool and partly sunny day. Fingers crossed.

[Big letters on the side of a mountain across from the airport – BERGEN? – almost like “What, me worry?” Driver tells us it’s supposed to mean that Bergen is full of surprises. Seems it can be interpreted other ways as well….]

Our new bus picks us up at the airport, we drop off our bags at the hotel (since our rooms aren’t ready yet) and takes us for an orientation tour of the gorgeous little city. As we reach the harbor the sky exposes even more blue. We see a small tidal wave of people engulfing the city, look up and see the cruise ships. Might be a great way to see the world, but not for people walking the other way. Nancy and Jeff – be aware on your special upcoming cruise to Scandinavia.

A beautiful, hundred year old three master still used for civilian and military training.

Environmental fact about Bergen. City is divided up into driving rings, much like in Paris. You need special permits and pay a huge price to drive in the city. In fact, combustion engine autos bought in Norway pay 150% tax. However, if you buy an electric car, you don’t pay that tax and can drive and park in the city center for free. I saw three Teslas turn the same corner in a row.

Norway is one of the world’s wealthiest countries, mainly because of their oil reserves. Good thing the dollar is strong against their Krona because cost of everything here is sky high.

We got off the bus at the fish market to be greeted by the guy above and amazing plates of paella and langoustines.

It was time for lunch so Marsha and I ordered a long sandwich with half cured Norwegian salmon and half shrimp in mayonnaise. A small plate of the paella was nearly $25 by the way.

Our walking tour began. We went off to explore the World UNESCO Heritage site, Bryggen, one of Bergen’s old neighborhoods. Even these neat manhole covers announce where you are.

This delicate, wooden old town. This Hanseatic quarter is a stark reminder that this part of “Norway” was German at one time.

This giant carving of a really ugly fish is a good example of the handicraft created there all the way up to today. There is obvious restoration of three of the older buildings that is really impressive.

After Bryggen we decide to take the funicular- a really modern one – up to the overlook on top of the closest mountain for some spectacular views on an unexpectedly beautiful day.

(Most of the view)

A slightly more interesting panorama.

Instead of taking the funicular back down we decided to hike back to town on the 3.5 km, one-hour trail down.

It was a beautiful, magical hike on our already very tired legs, but we didn’t realize it would make us too late to really explore the expansive KODA Art Museum, and it’s four or five buildings. Really too bad.

But we made do by finding more, unique Bergen sites like this period McDonalds.

This gazebo in a planted center square in town was mind-blowing.

And the fountain square near our hotel was really peaceful and quiet late in the afternoon, after the Cruise ship crowd had left for dinner and on-board entertainment.

We bid adieu to Edvard Grieg and bird as we retired to our room to decide on where we could dine, not too far. We found a Thai restaurant a four minute walk away and learned that good Thai dining is best found in New York and New Jersey.

I’m typing this post continually trying to unstick my tongue from the roof of my mouth – salt is a commodity best spared.

Tomorrow is a long travel day by bus, two trains, boat and another bus to view the amazing Fjords of Norway. The weather, unfortunately, is calling for light rain all day at 100%. But, today turned out beautiful. Let’s all keep our fingers crossed…and our hats, umbrellas and raincoats handy.

Off early for a full day of exploration of Stockholm on our own. We walk about half an hour from our hotel in Södermalm through new Stockholm across the bridge to Gamlastan (Old Stockholm) to a ferry that would take us across the water to the edge of Skeppsholmen.

A pleasant 10-minute ferry ride crowded with kids on this beautiful Saturday morning all headed to the spectacular amusement park that can be seen on all vistas around Stockholm.

We skip the spins and drops and flips of the rides (even though you can get in free if you’re over 65 – don’t see too many people taking advantage of that) – and walk past the aquarium, the tram terminal until we see this sign…

…and this spectacular, futuristic, windowless building of metal plates and concrete housing the Vasa.

The Vasa. A fantastic flop turned into a great piece of history, archeology, and anthropology.

The spectacular warship, decked out with hundreds of sculptures and state-of-the-art innovations…. listed to it’s port side and sank 40 minutes into its maiden voyage in 1628 from a large wind gust. The ship designer was a bit off in his width, height and ballast calculations.

It laid at the bottom of Stockholm harbor until it was rediscovered in 1956 and finally raised by a team of marine archeologists in 1961. As Rick Steves says, the Edsel of the Sea.

Today it’s probably the best preserved ship anywhere. It’s been in the museum since 1990. It’s a spectacular feat of restoration…and presentation. Never heard of it or expected it, but now will be one of our brightest memories of Stockholm.

On our way to check out Skansen we pass by the ABBA museum…yes, the ABBA museum. I guess if your Swedish….

And, no town is complete without its flamingos.

Skansen is Europe’s first and best open-air folk museums with more than 150 old homes, churches, shops and schools, but time is getting short and we have to decide on Skansen and the Modern Art Museum. Guess what? The art museum won.

A huge surprise. Really didn’t know what to expect, but found one of the best, most extensive museums of modern art anywhere outside of New York.

The special exhibit was amazing and enlightening, including a documentary about how modernity is heartlessly driving old, thriving, private business out of “developing” neighborhoods.

The museum’s collections is extensive, wide-ranging and beautifully presented. Of course Marsha looks good with her favorite Matisse cut outs.

We decide to take the long walk back to the hotel, crossing a couple of bridges until we get back to the old city.

On the way we decide to take Rick Steves’ guided walking tours of Gamla Stan, starting between the sea and the royal palace at the statue of King Gustav III and winding through the old streets.

A favorite is the Iron Boy, a fist size figure said to commemorate the orphans who were put into service off-loading ships in the harbor. His head’s rubbed to a shine by people wanting better luck than the orphans. We actually see a pretty seedy man vigorously rubbing the boys head and quietly pocketing some of the larger coins…helping change his luck we guess.

A bonus brass band concert greets us in the town’s main square. A well-timed place to rest and relax before regaining our trek.

Hey New Yorkers, City Bikes of Stockholm.

Hey Abyl, Moma did almost 25,000 steps today. Isn’t that close to your record?

Anyway, we take a chance and stop at Montenegrin restaurant and have a really nice dinner before a final walk (with a stop for a gelato and sorbet to) before getting back to ready for a 5 am wake up for our early flight to Bergen, Norway. Yawn.

What do they have in common? Yes, they were invented or conceived in Sweden.

We’re here. After a construction-riddled ride to Kennedy Airport, an eight hour flight to Helsinki, a 3.5 hour layover and one hour delay before our flight to Stockholm. Hooray, and what day is it Mama?

Turns out it’s Friday afternoon, and before we can rest up a bit, a full afternoon of Stockholm, the city built on 14 islands.

Vista of the Old City the way it looked in 1675. OK, maybe not with the amusement park. But you can see the Old City Hall tower, and you’re looking toward the Baltic Sea with only 30,000 islands making up the world’s largest archipelago blocking your view.

We stopped to take a close up look at the Old City Hall, still used by the 101 person council – of whom 53 are women. Probably another reason Sweden functions so well.

Inside, the stairwell where Nobel Prize winners enter the banquet and celebration in their honor. Congratulations Marsha.

That ceiling detail contains a 1,000-pipe organ played from below in one corner of the hall. Would just love to hear a few booming bass notes.

The magnificent local marble-inlaid floor of the Hall. And speaking of stones, the entire Old City is built on solid granite. As we drove through the streets you can see why the Swedes had to invent dynamite to cut through the sheer granite cliffs.

The great “blue” room (it’s not blue?!) next door symbolizes the melding of the East and the West in an amazing display of gilding.

The room’s centerpiece is the controversial woman of the merge. The artist had to justify why he made her hands and feet and eyes so outsized – not popular with many locals.

Can you tell this represents the world’s West….

And this the East.

And the architect maintains his place…by the exit…just in case. Actually a spectacular building, anchoring one of the many islands that make up Stockholm.

On the way back to the hotel we get a good look at the building where the Nobel Prize winners are honored before the banquet/celebration. Interesting that the only Nobel not given in Sweden is the Peace Prize, given in Norway. Why? I don’t know.

Finally back to the hotel to get organized for a full day of exploring Stockholm. We’re pretty exhausted, so off to bed, and see you tomorrow.