Around the World with Marsha & Joel

Everything is close in Israel (about the size of NJ). Makes traveling pretty easy, but it’s understandable why Israelis can be a little tense as we travel with the Mediterranean on our left and the Sumerian mountains visible on our right a mere ten miles away. And those overlooking heights don’t harbor friends. Our first stop is Caesarea….

An ancient Roman port and aqueduct with Byzantine streets and Crusader ruins. Developed originally by Herod, a visionary in seeing the fortune to be made by building this port and attracting trade to it. Herod was probably reincarnated in Baron Rothschild who did the same with it two centuries later…after many iterations.

Remains of the port.

In front of the Roman amphitheater. Was three times this size, and one-sided, facing the Mediterranean to view simulated sea battles…as well as gladiators. Now often used for modern concerts.

Part of a sign for an ancient podiatrist?

We ascend Mt. Carmel through Haifa for spectacular views of the impressive golden domed Baha’i Shrine and surrounding Persian gardens…

…and the Haifa bay and harbor. We stopped for lunch at one of the prominent Druze villages…a unique group of Israeli arabs who even serve prominently in the IDF. Interesting to note how Druze women are totally equal to the men in all phases of their society (even more equal than Israeli women according to our guide).

To Nazareth and the Basilica of the Annunciation, built above the home of the Virgin Mary and the place where…

…the angel Gabriel (top) announced the imminent birth of her son.

Panels of the Virgin designed and made world-wide are placed around the walls of the Basilica. This one was made in the US by Charles Madden — commissioned to do in 1972. Look him up; an amazing artist.

Now off to the Hotel at the Lavi Kibbutz in the Lower Galilee. Tomorrow to the Sea of Galilee and the Golan Heights.

Awoke to the muslim call to prayer this morning (several mosques in Old Jaffa). Looked at my watch and it was 1:30 am??? Maybe an earlier tradition in Arab Israel? Listened closer to find it was the night club downstairs going on until 2 am. Finally back to sleep until thunder and lightning awoke us at about 4 am. But the sun was unexpectedly shining at 7. Almost 60 degrees. Snow almost forgotten.

First stop on a tour of Jaffa and Tel Aviv itself. Up the hill with spectacular views of rapidly expanding Tel Aviv, really the center of modern life in Israel.

The architecture of Tel Aviv expands from the very eclectic styles settlers brought with them from all over the world to the Bauhaus style of the late 30’s and 40’s to the ultra-modern and post-modern structures going up everywhere.

For you Hebrew readers, you’ll know what this is. Maybe the ancient arches will give everyone else a hint. Comes in Kosher and non-Kosher varieties, and has McFelafel sandwiches…really.

After morning tour, went back on our own to explore Jaffa. Delicious schwarma lunch, a look at locked jewish artisan shops (Shabbat) and a surprise to find a beautiful Ethiopian (we think) couple taking photos after their wedding.

And off to see the Ilana Goor museum. Just in from a sculpture of the big fish (whale) – this is where Jonah set off on his journey. Ilana did the sculpture and thought our grandkids would like to see it.

The museum is also her spectacular home. She is still working there. Amazing woman represented in all corners of the earth with her sculpture, paintings, furniture, etc. Surprised to find she actually lived 50 years in the US. Place is full, full of her works and collections of ancient to modern artists. Don’t miss if you’re in Tel Aviv!

Bonus of wonderful views from her terraces and windows.

Another view of expanding Tel Aviv. This is probably how they get around working during Shabbat to keep the country growing. Very cheap labor.

Last look inside the museum before heading back to the hotel in a sudden rain and winds shower. Of course we left raincoats and umbrellas in the room since we left in the sun. Soaked, but happy — some rest, a nice dinner, some blogging and some sleep before heading north tomorrow.

Made it! Not a stress-free task after the last week’s weather forecasts (were already looking at our trip insurance), but we made it to Tel Aviv actually 20 minutes early on this Valentine’s Day. Just wanted to let you know that the trip…and the Blog is on.

Arrived late in the afternoon and got to the hotel (right on the beach in Tel Aviv) and immediately took a walk along the beach (just before sunset on Shabbat) to the old city of Jaffa to grab a bite to eat. Our dear friends Pauline and Sol just had suggested a wonderful Arab restaurant near the old tower.

So in we went to Haj Kahil as they were able to squeeze us in on a busy Friday night and, yes, Valentine’s. We were almost at a loss in choosing from the amazing menu. Full of fresh, fresh Middle Eastern goodies, some familiar and some not so much. Then a very nice woman sits down at the table next to ours –Evelyn from the Dominican Republic on a business trip. She ordered an amazing array of everything from the most amazing hummus to kumquats with currants to spicy carrots to pickled leeks to yogurt with walnuts to, to, too! She had been here the day before with a group and had to go again by herself. She ordered so much that we just pulled our tables together, ordered a couple of extra things, and some pomegranate juice and had a feast….

Sated and happy.

Off to bed hoping the trip will all be as special as this first culinary experience.