As we cruised the early morning overcast toward Krems we passed the
Schloss Schönbühel, a castle in the Lower Austrian town of Schönbühel-Aggsbach, below Melk on the right bank of the Danube. The origins of the castle date from the early twelfth century.
And then the Monastery of Augustinian Canons, the Herzogenbury Monastery in the town of the same name. The Priory was founded in 1112 and refurbushed in the baroque style in 1714.
The day deteriorated a bit, but cleared up (just enough) in time for our ride through the lower Austrian hills around Krems with spectacular views on our way to Goettweig Abbey.
The rain faded to sprinkles as we made our way through the gate to the Abbey, and let up entirely as we finished our (inside) orientation.
Göttweig Abbey is a Benedictine monastery near Krems. It was founded in 1083 by Altmann, Bishop of Passau. In the middle ages the abbey was a seat of learning with a library and a monastic school. The abbey went through a period of decline during the 15th and 16th centuries and in 1580 it was mostly destroyed by a fire. Under a new abbot brought in from Melk Abbey the monastery was rebuilt and restored.
The worship space was magnificent including the organ and the modern painting atop the alter. That painting is changed regularly. The job of climbing the tower, removing the painting and replacing it with another goes to the youngest brother as part of his religious duties. The brothers pray 5 times a day and are given a pretty good stipend to help with their personal needs and recreation. Smart phones are, of course, a universal part of their expenditures.
As Franciscans, they also tend the distillery where the fruit from local trees are turned into fine liqueurs and brandy that are, of course, for sale in the gift shop.
And without question their bakery features the incredible Sachertorte, the very special flourless chocolate cake that says Lower Austria and especially, Vienna…where we’re soon heading. Saliva is flowing.
It was just a short sail, really just across the Danube to dock on the Krems side. We had time before dinner and the evening activities to wander into the UNESCO listed city, a hub for higher education and contemporary arts, particularly around Museumsplatz in the adjacent district of Stein
Krems serves as the eastern gateway to the Wachau Valley, it blends over 1,000 years of history with a vibrant student population and renowned white wine production, especially famous for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. There is lots of baroque architecture, a museum of “cartoons” (see the lovely couple above), even stylish manhole covers and anti-faschist sculpture.
We’ll be sailing the 70 kilometers to Vienna overnight, but in the meantime we were in for another “treat” as our Program Director, Marek put on a show worthy of the best drag shows anywhere (not that we’ve seen many).
Not only could Marek sing and dance, but the entire segment, costumes and lyrics were the factual story of the life of Mozart. Live and learn…I guess.
Full of Austrian wine, beer, bratwurst, and pretzels, we said good night to Marek and slept, dreaming of one of the trips upcoming highlights, Vienna…and maybe a bit of sachertorte….